Hayden Peak - NE Pillar

5.9, 4 pitches

Resources CascadeClimbers trip report CascadeClimbers general area report Time estimates 0:45 – Trail for 1.4 miles, 730 ft gain 2:45 – Bushwacking for 1.4 miles 5:45 – Scree and glacier to Ribbon Point, 1.7 mi, 2,700 ft 6:45 – Top of Ribbon Point 8:45 – Base of climb 9:15 – Climbing 12:15 – Top of…

Vesper Peak - True Grit

5.8, 5 pitches

An alpine trad+sport route with some great exposure on the face of Vesper. Approach Hike the normal trail to Vesper, and at around 5,600 feet, spot a turnoff to the right. You’ll instantly get an epic view of the lake. Continue left along the heather ledges across some steep sections (hopefully no snow as long…

Vesper Peak - Ragged Edge

5.7, 6 pitches

Gorgeous views and a great climb! Resources Steph Abegg Gear 60m rope Doubles of 0.3 – 1, singles of 2, 3 Small nuts 12 quickdraws Approach The climb is accessed by a ledge system that cuts across the north face of Vesper at about 5800 ft elevation and begins at a small notch overlooking the…

Morning Star Peak - Mile High Club

5.10a, 7 pitches

This route doesn’t actually go to the top of Morning Star, but is a little north on its ridge. Resources Steph Abegg Mountain Project Gear 60m rope 11 quickdraws if you clip every bolt 3 single alpines good enough Approach Take the Sunrise Mine Trail to the final switchback before it goes up the steep…

Mount Maude - North Face

Class 4

Trip reports 5/26/2015 Snow/ice falling from death cornice, one even hit them 6/26/2011 Rock fall + death cornice 7/1/2006 Death cornice 7/16/2006 Rocks falling down + death cornice 8/19/2014 Rock fall Drive 3 hr drive from Redmond Distances Starts at 3,500 ft 4 hrs: Car to camp (6,100 ft) 5 miles, 2,837 ft gain, all…

Sherpa Peak - N.E. Couloir

Class 4

45 degree snow Resources Map Weather forecast Some descent info and map of descent Some good photos Breakdown 2:40 hrs: Home to trailhead 4 hrs: Trailhead to camp 6 miles, 2,600 ft gain 7 hrs: Camp to summit: 1 mile, 2,900 ft gain 1,000 ft of it is on 45 degree snow slope 6 hrs:…

Dragontail Peak - Backbone Ridge

5.9, 12 pitches

Resources Mountain Project Summary People seem to describe it as a few good pitches with otherwise poor rock quality, but epic views and epic alpine experience. Gear Doubles to #2 and a #4 and #6. No need for the #5, but the #6 is needed for the long and wide offwidth

Sky Pilot Mountain - West Buttress


Dirt road travel time: Max 30 mins each way 10 mins from Squamish to reach start of dirt road 2.8 miles on Shannon Creek FSR (9 mins) FSR instead of Gondola adds total of: Max 1.5 hrs (probably only 1 hr realistically) Max 1 hr extra driving RT Max 1 hr extra hiking RT Minus…

Mount Index - Hourglass Gully (Winter)

Class 4

The standard route up Index. In winter, it’s only class 4. A slightly technical winter summit Mount Index is mostly just a steep snow climb in the winter, with one steep snowfield that some choose to rappel back down. Approach Hike to Lake Serene on the normal trail. Gear Microspikes (trail is often icy) Lake…