Gear Radios? Cams: 3-5 of #2, 2-3 of #3… #0.2: 1-2x #0.3-0.75: 1-2x (prolly doubles?) #1: 1-2x (prolly doubles?) #2: 3-5x #3: 2-3x #4: 1x Nuts: Yes Backpack: Pack and shoes for walk off Crack gloves P1 – 5.7, 50′ Climb a left facing corner to a big ledge. Can link with next pitch if…
Angel Food Wall - Tunnel Vision
5.7, 5 pitches
Time estimates About 5 hours C2C? 30 min approach 3 hrs climbing 1 hr descent Approach About 30 minutes. 1.1 miles, 350 ft gain. Gear #0.3-4 with double 0.4-2. Most say you don’t need a #5. Nuts (most seem to say a couple nuts were useful) Carry approach shoes up (for walk off) Overview P1…
Three Hour Buttress - Three Hour Arete
5.10b, 4 pitches
Gear Rope: 60m Cams: #0.2-2 Cams if pushing grade: #0.1-3 Cams if linking P1-2: #0.2-2 with double 0.3-2? Cam beta: Cams only needed for P1-2, P3-4 are all sport Nuts: standard Draws: 12 draws (8 sport, 4 single alpine) Radio: Unknown Crack gloves Approach 10 minutes. Overview P1 – 5.10a, 30m A few stiff face/thin flake moves take one past the bolt…
PSOM Slab - The Big Deal
5.9, 5 pitches
This route description considers P1 to be The High Life. Officially, The Big Deal starts from the top of The High Life, but for simplicity, this route description describes The High Life + The Big Deal as one single multi-pitch from the ground. Gear Rope: 70m Cams: #0.1-3, with double #0.3-0.75 Cam beta: Optional #4 but most don’t…
PSOM Slab - John Fischer Memorial Route
5.10c, 7 pitches
Approach 5-10 minutes, 0.25 miles, 141 ft gain. Overview Location The JFMR starts 150 feet uphill of Racing Lizards with bolts on the slab. Follow bolts and prominent cracks to the top. You will find another line of bolts about 50′ above JFMR also. There is a gully about 50 feet below JFMR that had…
El Segundo Buttress - Becky Route
5.9, 5 pitches
Time estimates Total: 5 hours car-to-car? Approach: 40 mins Climb: 2.5 hours Descent: ~60 mins? Gear 70m rope? Last 4th class pitch might need it? Doubles #0.3-3, optional 0.2. No need for #4 unless you struggle with 5.7 offwidth. Nuts ~6 alpine draws ~1 double alpine draw ~4 sport draws I think you CAN leave…
How Sound Redoubt Wall - Throne of Kings
5.10b, 8 pitches
Gear If linking, 14 draws (probably some alpine) 70m rope if rappelling instead of walking off Overview Shaded till around 11:30am in mid-July P1: 5.4, 5 bolts, 25m Follow the highly featured rock past bolts, trending rightward slightly, and up to a small terrace with a 2-bolt anchor. Links easily with P2 as 60m, 14…
Bulletheads, Central - Bullethead East
5.10c, 4 pitches
Approach Overview P1 – 5.9. 40m. Continue trending up and left to a bolted belay on top of Bullethead Ledge. People say this pitch has the worst gear, feels “alpiney”, “hollow”, “marginal gear”. Potentially you can scramble up to Slot Machine ledge and start directly on P2 or can climb Rainy Day Dream Away for…
SEWS - South Arete
5.5, 3 pitches
Pitch 1 – 5.5, ~30m Shortest and technically most difficult pitch. Climb the small slab/flake (crux). Then easy climbing up to a belay beneath the whitish south corner that splits the arete. Pitch 2 – Chimney, ~60m Scramble climber’s right into the gully and climb the gully until it becomes a chimney (easy 5th). Then follow…
NEWS (North Early Winter Spire) - The West Face
5.11-, 6 pitches
Gear My recommended gear… #0.1-3 with double 0.3-3 Nuts Crack gloves 60m rope (just enough to reach new rappels) 12 draws Leave extra gear at base? Sounds like the new rappel deposits you close to where you start. People’s opinions… Elsie: Double #0.1-3, and a single #5 (no #4), 16 slings Jordan: Next time I’d…