Pitch 1 – 5.5, ~30m Shortest and technically most difficult pitch. Climb the small slab/flake (crux). Then easy climbing up to a belay beneath the whitish south corner that splits the arete. Pitch 2 – Chimney, ~60m Scramble climber’s right into the gully and climb the gully until it becomes a chimney (easy 5th). Then follow…
NEWS (North Early Winter Spire) - The West Face
5.11-, 6 pitches
Gear My recommended gear… #0.1-3 with double 0.3-3 Nuts Crack gloves 60m rope (just enough to reach new rappels) 12 draws Leave extra gear at base? Sounds like the new rappel deposits you close to where you start. People’s opinions… Elsie: Double #0.1-3, and a single #5 (no #4), 16 slings Jordan: Next time I’d…
Liberty Bell - Liberty Traverse (Beckey and West Face)
5.11, 24 pitches
Gear #0.1-3 with double #0.3-3 (0.1-0.2 are for NEWS West Face) Beckey Route: Double 0.4-3 (since simul-linking P1-2 and P3-4), slings, no nuts North Face Double 0.3-3 and nuts (since linking P2-3) OR Cave Route (slower): #0.3-3 with double #2-3 NEWS: #0.1-3 with double 0.3-3 SEWS needs double 0.3-3, optional #4-5 or South Arete only…
Liberty Bell - Beckey Route (SW Face)
5.6, 4 pitches
Gear #0.4-3 with optional double 0.5-2 Nuts Many slings 60m rope Overview P1 – 5.3, 130′ Climb the chimney/tunnel (easier) OR the face to its left (a little more sustained), belay from a large ledge with a tree. P2 – 5.5, 130′ Continue up the chimney for about 30m, climbing past chockstones and blocky slabs…
Goat Wall - Born in Time
5.10, 8 pitches
Overview Very well bolted. The main con seems to be that it’s still a little dirty (mainly the upper pitches, the lower pitches are quite clean). People have had some holds blow on P6 and P8 (be aware of climbers above), and some lichen up there. Starts just right (and maybe down?) of Methow Inspiration…
Valhalla - Earl Gray
5.9, 8 pitches
Overview Well bolted route ascending some pretty good rock, although rock quality decreases after P5. Route does wander a bit, especially on P4. 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 🪢 🪢 🪢🪢 🪢🪢🪢🪢 Gear Single 60m rope 14 draws (6 sport, 7 single alpine, 1 double alpine) Approach 0.5 miles, 760 ft gain, ~30 mins? Park at…
Goat Wall - Restless Natives
5.11c, 11 pitches
Routes like Methow Inspiration Route, Prime Rib, and Sisyphus are better quality and more traveled for sure. However, if you’ve done all of those and are looking for another long route then this should definitely be on your radar. Unlike the other routes this one is very sustained. The crux pitches may not be more…
Illusion Wall - Excalibur
5.10+, 10 pitches
Overall Really well liked aside from the approach (some bushwacking, some steep slab, some trickiness). Otherwise, good mixture of slab climbing, featured climbing, corners, pretty good belay stances, quite well protected. Gear Double 60m ropes (needed for rappel) Singles #0.3-2 Nuts 15 draws (8 sport, 6 single alpine, 1 double alpine) NO radios? Seems like…
Three O-clock Rock - The Kone (Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route)
5.9, 5 pitches
P1 – 5.9, 3 bolts Climb up the middle of the sweeping slab between left facing flakes. Aim for the left side of an overlap. Great pro (bolts and gear to 1.5 in cracks on the side) all the way up. Clip the last bolt below the overhang, then pass it on the right (can…
Goat Wall - Methow Inspiration Route
5.9+, 5 pitches
Rebolted in 2022, this is now a decently well bolted route! Any mentions of “30 ft runouts” are outdated. Gear 60m rope 15 draws Overview 20 min approach 2:00 hrs climbing? (20 mins/pitch?) 1:00 hr rappelling? (6 rappels) 4 hours car-to-car? 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 🪢 🪢 🪢 🪢🪢 Approach About 20 mins. Park next…