https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107213152/no-sweat-arete Quick summary of what you’re getting into… Ticks, lots and lots of ticks during tick season (even on Aug 5th we found 3 on us). Location on MP is wrong, I’ve submitted a correction and also posted GPX approach/descent trails) Not the best approach (1-1.5 hrs), steep dirt scree slopes for the second half…
Dome Peak - Gran Torino
5.9, 13 pitches
See Cascades Rock book by Blake Herrington. I think the other route on this peak is actually easier since it has fewer tough pitches.
Dome Peak - Indian Summer
5.10-, 7 pitches
See Cascades Rock book by Blake Herrington Sources https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/82679-tr-dome-peak-s-face-indian-summer-iii-510-fa-lily-of-the-west-fa-922011/ Approach Brutal approach… from the west, it’s ~10 miles, 7,800 ft gain, the same approach as to Spire Point, which is the Ptarmigan Traverse trail, which is where we were bit by wasps at least 3 separate times on the bushwacky trail. So probably 2 days…
Little Big Chief Mountain - Falcon Route
5.9, 9 pitches
In the middle of nowhere! Apparently Middle Fork had a landslide on Dec 31, 2019, and is still probably closed because of that. Mid-summer is earliest estimated reopoening. Big thanks to https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/102286-little-big-chief/?tab=comments#comment-1154989 https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/866-first-ascent-on-little-big-chief-mountain/ https://www.summitpost.org/little-big-chief-mountain/421526 Little Big Chief Mountain, Falcon Route. Jeff Hansell and I made this new route (IV 5.9) on September 10,2001. Little Big…
The Tooth - The Tooth Fairy
5.9+, 7 pitches
Such a good route! Well bolted, accurate grade, fun climbing, good route! It’s basically like Flyboys but only 7 pitches. And it’s only a 2 hr approach. Only 3 rappels (and a little scrambling) to get down the standard tooth route too! Big thanks to https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/103041-tr-das-toof-the-tooth-fairy-59-08152019/?tab=comments#comment-1157791 Gear 13 draws, 60m rope. Or if linking, 15…
Mythic Peak - Green Creek Arete
5.6, 6 pitches
New log bridge: https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/104154-tr-twin-sisters-range-green-creek-circuit-08192021/ Mostly easy scrambling up an arete. Excellent description here. Like many routes in the Sisters the climbing was much easier than it looked. We scrambled up delightful 3rd and 4th class rock before slipping into rock shoes for a clean exposed slab on the crest of the arete. The horizontal section…
Steeple Rock - Wings
5.8, 3 pitches
https://www.summitpost.org/steeple-rock/394209 Doesn’t really sound that neat, only a 200 ft cliff? Not great rock quality either? Apparently it is sport. Maybe bring a single rack and nuts just in case? Approach The road is essentially right below the peak (200 vertical feet below and 0.1 mile away). It looks like you park a little before…