Ruby Mountain - Ruby Ski Tour
Class 2
Starting elevation is 2,126. Resources https://www.medicalmooselabs.com/rubymountain http://thepeakoftheweek.com/2016/03/ruby-mountain-north-cascades/ Ruby Mountain | Steven’s Peak-bagging Journey (stevensong.com) Ruby Tuesday – PNW Trip Report – The Backcountry Ski Touring Blog (wildsnow.com) March 24, 2012, Ruby Mtn, North Side via Happy Crk (turns-all-year.com) Ascent On Mar 24, 2012 they were actually able to skin the whole thing Less than 20…
North Face
Class 2
Castleton Tower is arguably the most popular tower climb in the world. There are two easy routes up, the Kor-Ingalls and the North Face. People seem to enjoy the climbing on the North Face much more. It has 3 excellent pitches of climbing! Approach Usually an hour
Dana's Arch - DGS
5.9, 3 pitches
With the possible exception of “The back road”, this is the easiest route to the top of the Upper Town Wall. Gear 70m rope + 20-30′ of additional pull cord Nuts and cams to wide-fist size. For the second pitch, it may help to have doubles in the hand size, or at least doubles of…
Morning Star Peak - Beyond Redlining
5.10+, 11 pitches
Credit to Mountain Project! Gear 60m rope (or 70m if need to bail route) 17 quickdraws, including 3-6 alpine Radios: Probably not needed? Beyond Redlining runs straight up the West Face of the Vega North Tower on excellent rock for 11 pitches (8 of them are 5.10). It finishes on the same summit as Mile…
Lexington Tower - East Face
5.9+, 10 pitches
Credit goes to… Mountain Project chossclimbers Steph Dasherton Summitpost Getting there Park at the pond (south side of highway) that is located approximately 1.2 miles east of the pass. Hike up the trail for 30-45 minutes to the base. There are a couple of options depending on the condition of the snowfield at the base.…
Prusik Peak - West Ridge
5.7, 4 pitches
This climb mainly goes up easier terrain on solid rock. The most distinctive pitch is near the top and goes up a short exposed slab (5.7). Otherwise the climbing is 5.5 or easier. Stay fairly close to the ridge proper looking for easiest path. Spectacular position and fun climbing make this a classic. It would…
Irene's Arete
5.8, 7 pitches
Really good climbing, maybe some route finding (with lots of variations) Resources https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105804852/irenes-arete https://www.summitpost.org/irene-s-arete/164644 (lots of good pitch-by-pitch descriptions) Steph’s writeup: http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/wyoming/disappointment Some good photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/dacus/sets/72157624912399758/with/4972144733/ https://drdirtbag.wordpress.com/2011/06/25/disappointment-peak-irenes-arete-iii-5-8/ Gear 60m rope Rack? Probably #0.3-#3, with doubles up to #2 Mountain Project: Gear to 3″ MP comment: Conservative rack would be doubles from 0.3-2 and one 3,…
Sky Pilot
5.7, 11 pitches
Resources https://www.mountainproject.com/route/112133991/sky-pilot https://wanderhigh.com/2013/09/01/idaho-alpine-climbing-sky-pilot-5-8-iii-on-peak-11280-in-the-pioneer-range/ http://fadgenfamily.blogspot.com/2018/09/sky-pilot-peak-11280.html http://scidaho.blogspot.com/2010/07/sky-pilot-iv-58-wildhorse-creek.html Video of P3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRO97fJ3JiU https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/idahooutdoorsforum/sky-pilot-5-7-trad-alpine-1200-ft-11-pitches-grade-t5900.html Schedule ~2 hr approach (both a mountain guiding service and wanderhigh’s blog said 2 hrs) ~6 hrs climbing (wanderhigh) ~3 hrs back to the car (wanderhigh) Descent After summiting, we descended the south side, followed the steep basin down to the creek (which we quickly…