Cathedral Peak - Southeast Buttress
5.9, 10 pitches
Looks like AWESOME rock, mostly 5.8 pitches with one 5.9 and one 5.7 Resources Steph Abegg Cascade Rock book To camp Backpack to Upper Cathedral Lake via Andrews Creek trail, it’s 19 miles with 5,511 feet gain. Approach About a 45 minute approach from the camp (far side of lake), only 1.3 miles with 470…
Cutthroat Wall - The Perfect Crime
5.9, 5 pitches
Getting there 3:15 hr drive to Cutthroat Trailhead 1:30 hr approach (1.5 miles, 1529 ft gain) 5:00 hr climb? 1:00 hr descent? 1:00 hr hike back? Car-to-car estimate: 9 hrs Home-to-home estimate: 15:45 hrs Approach From the Cutthroat Lake TH, walk up the old road bed for ~5 minutes, then head left up the hill…
North Ridge of Skookum
5.4, 3 pitches
Resources https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/87502-tr-skookum-peak-sisters-range-north-ridge-6282012/ (some good photos) Skookup follows the ridge up to the summit (Jaw’s Tooth is the left line). The final ~250 feet of ridge was done in three short pitches on great protectable rock, mostly lower 5th class with lots of options for adding in some spice. Fun and straight forward
Jaw's Tooth
5.6
Resources CascadeClimbers report Jaw’s Tooth is the route on the left that only goes to the ridge, Skookum continues up the right on the ridge. Jaw’s Tooth has clean 5th class slabs and splitter cracks. One person claims it’s the best technical climb in the range, with adequate length, really excellent rock, good exposure, sustained…
Mythic Peak - The Mythic Wall
5.10-, 6 pitches
Big thanks to https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/35315-tr-the-mythical-bellingham-big-wall-7212005/?tab=comments#comment-479363 http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/mythic2 P1 (5.8, 55m) Start directly below the only tree on the lower face. Pass a horizontal fault at 40′, pull through steep black rock then follow ramps and corners to the tree. P2 (5.9+, 45m) Hard moves off the belay, then climb up and right until you can traverse right…
Hayden Peak - NE Pillar
5.9, 4 pitches
Resources CascadeClimbers trip report CascadeClimbers general area report Time estimates 0:45 – Trail for 1.4 miles, 730 ft gain 2:45 – Bushwacking for 1.4 miles 5:45 – Scree and glacier to Ribbon Point, 1.7 mi, 2,700 ft 6:45 – Top of Ribbon Point 8:45 – Base of climb 9:15 – Climbing 12:15 – Top of…
Vesper Peak - True Grit
5.8, 5 pitches
An alpine trad+sport route with some great exposure on the face of Vesper. Approach Hike the normal trail to Vesper, and at around 5,600 feet, spot a turnoff to the right. You’ll instantly get an epic view of the lake. Continue left along the heather ledges across some steep sections (hopefully no snow as long…
Vesper Peak - Ragged Edge
5.7, 6 pitches
Gorgeous views and a great climb! Resources Steph Abegg Gear 60m rope Doubles of 0.3 – 1, singles of 2, 3 Small nuts 12 quickdraws Approach The climb is accessed by a ledge system that cuts across the north face of Vesper at about 5800 ft elevation and begins at a small notch overlooking the…
Morning Star Peak - Mile High Club
5.10a, 7 pitches
This route doesn’t actually go to the top of Morning Star, but is a little north on its ridge. Resources Steph Abegg Mountain Project Gear 60m rope 11 quickdraws if you clip every bolt 3 single alpines good enough Approach Take the Sunrise Mine Trail to the final switchback before it goes up the steep…