Bonanza Peak - Mary Green Glacier

Class 4

Important details You must be at the bus before 10:15 AM, since they pack the luggage and move the luggage truck before then. The bus doesn’t actually leave till 10:45 AM, but get there early. Getting there Getting to Bonanza is a challenge. The only way there is by ferry (yes, there’s not even some…

Exfoliation Dome - Blueberry Buttress

5.8+, 9 pitches

Exfoliation Dome is a seldom climbed peak with a tricky to find trailhead. Note: There are often loose flakes on the route, sometimes it can be dangerous. Key resources Google Maps directions to the road fork (see Getting There for remaining instructions) Hiking: 1.2 miles, 1,277 ft gain (round trip) Itinerary Total car-to-car est: ~16 hours Driving…

Cutthroat Peak - North Ridge

5.7, 8 pitches

Resources Excellent trip report by spokalpine Pitches 1 and 2 The first two pitches are chossy, loose, and dangerous. Limited protection, runout, and easy to pull off holds. The rest After that, the rock improves and becomes nice granite

SEWS - Southwest Rib

5.8+, 8 pitches

Gear We brought doubles up to #3 and one #4 and full nuts, but next time could just do doubles of #1-3 + nuts. Never used any large nuts either. Getting there There’s an excellent climbers trail now! It splits off 1.8 miles from the main trail. Pitch 1 – 5.8+, 200 ft? The official…

East Wilmans Spire - Standard Route

5.6, 3 pitches

Resources Eric and Lucie trip report Mtn Phill report To the ghost town Mountain bikes are ideal. If you’re a mountain biker, even the way in will be faster than walking, and the way out will be MUCH faster. For a non-mountain biker, the way in will be about the same as walking, but the…

Cutthroat Peak - South Buttress

5.8, 10 pitches

Apparently this is the “classic” route Other resources Excellent trip report by spokalpine Really good report with lots of photos Time Rough timeline on an average/faster-than-average pace from our 7/20/2019 trip 5:00 started hiking 6:00 at basin 7:00 at top of gully 12:00 at summit (5 hrs climbing) 12:15 started descending 4:30 at basin (we…