Trip reports 5/26/2015 Snow/ice falling from death cornice, one even hit them 6/26/2011 Rock fall + death cornice 7/1/2006 Death cornice 7/16/2006 Rocks falling down + death cornice 8/19/2014 Rock fall Drive 3 hr drive from Redmond Distances Starts at 3,500 ft 4 hrs: Car to camp (6,100 ft) 5 miles, 2,837 ft gain, all…
Sherpa Peak - N.E. Couloir
Class 4
45 degree snow Resources Map Weather forecast Some descent info and map of descent Some good photos Breakdown 2:40 hrs: Home to trailhead 4 hrs: Trailhead to camp 6 miles, 2,600 ft gain 7 hrs: Camp to summit: 1 mile, 2,900 ft gain 1,000 ft of it is on 45 degree snow slope 6 hrs:…
West McMillan Spire - West Ridge
Class 3
Lengthy 3rd class scramble in the Pickets Range Key resources CalTopo map
Dragontail Peak - Backbone Ridge
5.9, 12 pitches
Resources Mountain Project Summary People seem to describe it as a few good pitches with otherwise poor rock quality, but epic views and epic alpine experience. Gear Doubles to #2 and a #4 and #6. No need for the #5, but the #6 is needed for the long and wide offwidth
Sky Pilot Mountain - West Buttress
5.0
Dirt road travel time: Max 30 mins each way 10 mins from Squamish to reach start of dirt road 2.8 miles on Shannon Creek FSR (9 mins) FSR instead of Gondola adds total of: Max 1.5 hrs (probably only 1 hr realistically) Max 1 hr extra driving RT Max 1 hr extra hiking RT Minus…
Mount Index - Hourglass Gully (Winter)
Class 4
The standard route up Index. In winter, it’s only class 4. A slightly technical winter summit Mount Index is mostly just a steep snow climb in the winter, with one steep snowfield that some choose to rappel back down. Approach Hike to Lake Serene on the normal trail. Gear Microspikes (trail is often icy) Lake…
Salish Peak - Flight of the Falcon
5.10b, 9 pitches
Sport/trad route that’s partially bolted and only has 2 ascents on peakbagger?! And it’s an easy walk off. Just a far approach. Resources Steph Abegg Mountain Project Time Steph’s times below… Car to base of Roan Wall: 4 hours Car to base of Salish Peak: 6 hours Climb (base to summit): 4 hours, 20 minutes Summit to Base: 40…
Mount Triumph - Northeast Ridge
5.6, 10 pitches
Resources Summitpost Steph Abegg Lisa’s trip report Choss Climbers – Great photos of the climbing More photos Video of climb, knife edge at 5:30 Dandelion’s Approach to camp Take the Thornton Lakes Trail for about 5 miles (see the Getting There section on the main page) to the outlet of the lower lake. Follow the…
Inspiration Peak - East Ridge
5.9, 10 pitches
Gear 1X blue Alien2X green and yellow Aliens2X #0.5 to #1 Camalots3X #2 Camalots2X #3 CamalotsOne optional larger piece (we had #4 C4 & #5 Friend with us – redundant)Light set of nutsHelmets!!!Double ropes (on at least 2 raps we were happy to have at least 60 meter cords)Your choice of glacier gearLots of rap…