https://www.mountainproject.com/route/110624568/north-tower-ridge-route Approach options There’s two approach options. It’s like a 4+ hr drive. From the NW 3.5 miles, 2,300 ft gain on the way in (with 1,300 loss too)
Paisano Pinnacle - West Ridge of Paisano + Burgundy Spire North Face
5.9-
Approach: at head toward Burgundy Col, at 7,650ft traverse down toward the start of the route. Sounds like some a steep gully that can be a little sketchy, start of route can be hard to find. “The start of the route is located at 48.553059,-120.594153 (elevation 7448′), uphill from the large notch on the ridge.” …
Snow Creek Wall - Orbit
5.8+, 7 pitches
Considered PG13, has some runout. Steph has done it 4 times, and even on her 4th time, she says “never seems as trivial as its grade”. Resources / Credit Mountain Project Steph https://www.lemkeclimbs.com/snow-creek-wall-orbit-58.html Getting there 2:10 hour drive from home 2:00 hour hike? 2.5 miles, 2,200 ft gain, Mountain Project says +/- 1.5 hours 8:00…
Box Ridge
Class 2
Not sure what this is, but it looks like it could have routes on it Might be called “Lobox Mountain” and “Mossy Slab” Lobox TR: http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1158732 Lobox has 10-25 ft of class 4
Burgundy Spire - North Face
5.8, 6 pitches
You can optionally climb West Face of Paisano Pinnacle and skip the first 1-2 pitches, or climb from the col. Approach to col: 2.3 miles, 3,760 ft gain Pitch 1-2 scramble up 4th with the occasional mid 5th move to the broad sandy ledge connecting with paisano pinnacle.
Shoshone Spire - Shoshone South Face
5.8+, 6 pitches
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106679643/shoshone-south-face
No Sweat - No Sweat Arete
5.7, 4 pitches
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107213152/no-sweat-arete Quick summary of what you’re getting into… Ticks, lots and lots of ticks during tick season (even on Aug 5th we found 3 on us). Location on MP is wrong, I’ve submitted a correction and also posted GPX approach/descent trails) Not the best approach (1-1.5 hrs), steep dirt scree slopes for the second half…
Dome Peak - Gran Torino
5.9, 13 pitches
See Cascades Rock book by Blake Herrington. I think the other route on this peak is actually easier since it has fewer tough pitches.
Dome Peak - Indian Summer
5.10-, 7 pitches
See Cascades Rock book by Blake Herrington Sources https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/82679-tr-dome-peak-s-face-indian-summer-iii-510-fa-lily-of-the-west-fa-922011/ Approach Brutal approach… from the west, it’s ~10 miles, 7,800 ft gain, the same approach as to Spire Point, which is the Ptarmigan Traverse trail, which is where we were bit by wasps at least 3 separate times on the bushwacky trail. So probably 2 days…
Little Big Chief Mountain - Falcon Route
5.9, 9 pitches
In the middle of nowhere! Apparently Middle Fork had a landslide on Dec 31, 2019, and is still probably closed because of that. Mid-summer is earliest estimated reopoening. Big thanks to https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/102286-little-big-chief/?tab=comments#comment-1154989 https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/866-first-ascent-on-little-big-chief-mountain/ https://www.summitpost.org/little-big-chief-mountain/421526 Little Big Chief Mountain, Falcon Route. Jeff Hansell and I made this new route (IV 5.9) on September 10,2001. Little Big…