Jaw's Tooth

5.6

Resources CascadeClimbers report Jaw’s Tooth is the route on the left that only goes to the ridge, Skookum continues up the right on the ridge. Jaw’s Tooth has clean 5th class slabs and splitter cracks. One person claims it’s the best technical climb in the range, with adequate length, really excellent rock, good exposure, sustained…

Mythic Peak - The Mythic Wall

5.10-, 6 pitches

Big thanks to https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/35315-tr-the-mythical-bellingham-big-wall-7212005/?tab=comments#comment-479363 http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/mythic2 P1 (5.8, 55m) Start directly below the only tree on the lower face. Pass a horizontal fault at 40′, pull through steep black rock then follow ramps and corners to the tree. P2 (5.9+, 45m) Hard moves off the belay, then climb up and right until you can traverse right…

Hayden Peak - NE Pillar

5.9, 4 pitches

Resources CascadeClimbers trip report CascadeClimbers general area report Time estimates 0:45 – Trail for 1.4 miles, 730 ft gain 2:45 – Bushwacking for 1.4 miles 5:45 – Scree and glacier to Ribbon Point, 1.7 mi, 2,700 ft 6:45 – Top of Ribbon Point 8:45 – Base of climb 9:15 – Climbing 12:15 – Top of…

Vesper Peak - True Grit

5.8, 5 pitches

An alpine trad+sport route with some great exposure on the face of Vesper. Approach Hike the normal trail to Vesper, and at around 5,600 feet, spot a turnoff to the right. You’ll instantly get an epic view of the lake. Continue left along the heather ledges across some steep sections (hopefully no snow as long…

Vesper Peak - Ragged Edge

5.7, 6 pitches

Gorgeous views and a great climb! Resources Steph Abegg Gear 60m rope Doubles of 0.3 – 1, singles of 2, 3 Small nuts 12 quickdraws Approach The climb is accessed by a ledge system that cuts across the north face of Vesper at about 5800 ft elevation and begins at a small notch overlooking the…

Morning Star Peak - Mile High Club

5.10a, 7 pitches

This route doesn’t actually go to the top of Morning Star, but is a little north on its ridge. Resources Steph Abegg Mountain Project Gear 70m rope or two 60m’s (needed just for the rappel) 11 quickdraws if you clip every bolt 3 single alpines good enough Approach Take the Sunrise Mine Trail to the…

Mount Maude - North Face

Class 4

Trip reports 5/26/2015 Snow/ice falling from death cornice, one even hit them 6/26/2011 Rock fall + death cornice 7/1/2006 Death cornice 7/16/2006 Rocks falling down + death cornice 8/19/2014 Rock fall Drive 3 hr drive from Redmond Distances Starts at 3,500 ft 4 hrs: Car to camp (6,100 ft) 5 miles, 2,837 ft gain, all…

Sherpa Peak - N.E. Couloir

Class 4

45 degree snow Resources Map Weather forecast Some descent info and map of descent Some good photos Breakdown 2:40 hrs: Home to trailhead 4 hrs: Trailhead to camp 6 miles, 2,600 ft gain 7 hrs: Camp to summit: 1 mile, 2,900 ft gain 1,000 ft of it is on 45 degree snow slope 6 hrs:…

Dragontail Peak - Backbone Ridge

5.9, 12 pitches

Resources Mountain Project Summary People seem to describe it as a few good pitches with otherwise poor rock quality, but epic views and epic alpine experience. Gear Doubles to #2 and a #4 and #6. No need for the #5, but the #6 is needed for the long and wide offwidth