Overview Gear #0.3-4, with double #0.5-3 Nuts 60m rope Backpack with shoes (walk off) Approach ~35 mins, 0.6 miles, 551 ft gian. P1 – 5.6, 140′ Traverse right after the bulge at top to belay ledge. P2 – 5.7, 130′ Climb up 20-30 feet, then traverse out left to arete. Beached Whale move at end.…
Middle Cathedral Rock - Central Pillar of Frenzy
5.9, 5 pitches
Overview Gets shade around 11am Gear 60m rope Double #0.3-3, one or two #4’s Nuts Crack gloves Getting there Parking: Google Maps From the middle of the wide pull-out on the right side of the Southside Drive, hike into the woods for ~100 yards passing a climbers’ information sign. Turn right on the Valley Trail…
Manure Pile Buttress - The Nutcracker Suite
5.8, 5 pitches
Overview Gear Radios (comms on P5 can be a little tricky with the mantle) Nuts Cams as seen below 70m rope Shoes/pack for scramble walk down 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.75 #1 #2 #3 2 2-4 2-4 2-4 2 2 1 Approach P1 – 5.7 or 5.9 5.7 original Starts up a sort-of left-facing easy gully/crack…
Spearhead - Iron Messiah
5.10b, 10 pitches
Supertopo: This is an excellent and popular route by Zion standards. People who normally don’t enjoy chimney climbing seem to have a good time on this route. Iron Messiah was a proud solo effort by Ron Olevsky. Expect to find clean features due in part to the number of ascents this climb receives. Retreat is…
Half Dome - Snake Dike
5.7, 8 pitches
Overview Cables usually go up around June timeframe (permits are required when cables are up). When we went on April 2nd, the descent was snow free except for some snow on the lower lump. Linking Some link P2-3 (by starting on the anchor above traditional P1) Time estimates C2C: 12 hrs with breaks? 10:25 without?…
Kyhv Peak - Squawstruck
5.11b, 22 pitches
Overall 35 min approach Mostly ~5.9 climbing, very well bolted Can link many pitches with 60m, 15 pitches when linking the typical ones with max of 23 bolts 23 draws = 17 sport, 4 alpine, 2 double alpine ~6 hours of climbing Have to scramble/walk between pitches 5 times Walk off descent back to car…
Moses - Primrose Dihedrals
5.11+, 7 pitches
Getting there Drive to Taylor Campground (high clearance / 4WD recommended). Camping requires reservation and is $30. 20-30 min hike in. 500 ft gain, 0.9 miles. P1: 5.8 From the north side of the tower, climb down a few feet (but not more) and then up onto an exposed ledge which leads around the corner…
Mongegjura (Norway) - Sydpilaren
5.10, 25 pitches
6 ★★★Sydpilaren, 1135m Trad climb in Åndalsnes Område | theCrag Gear #4 used in one video, maybe 0.3-4 with nuts? Might want some doubles but maybe good enough? Crack gloves Alpine draws Getting there theCrag says to park here: https://goo.gl/maps/X5qEZCtyyXtDVQ4t8 Confirmed that you park at the church/graveyard dirt parking lot. Not sure where to hike…
Mt Habrich - Life In Space
5.10b, 27 pitches
Approach About 1 hour, high clearance required. Park at a pullout on the left identified by a large rockslide. Locate the cable burma bridge to cross the Stawamus River and follow the good trail to the base of The Fluffy Kitten Wall (30-40 minutes). From there, a crude trail continues right to the Stawamus River…
Dragontail Peak - This, My Friend
5.10a, 5 pitches
Gear 60m rope Rappel sling in case we have to set a rappel for descent Recommendations kmfoerster – At least a double rack of cams .2-2 and one #3. Metolius 00-1 proved quite useful too. With this route triples of certain sizes would not go unused. We had triples of .4-2, which we thought was…