Spearhead - Iron Messiah

5.10b, 10 pitches

Supertopo: This is an excellent and popular route by Zion standards. People who normally don’t enjoy chimney climbing seem to have a good time on this route. Iron Messiah was a proud solo effort by Ron Olevsky. Expect to find clean features due in part to the number of ascents this climb receives. Retreat is…

Half Dome - Snake Dike

5.7, 8 pitches

Overview Cables usually go up around June timeframe (permits are required when cables are up). When we went on April 2nd, the descent was snow free except for some snow on the lower lump. Linking Some link P2-3 (by starting on the anchor above traditional P1) Time estimates C2C: 12 hrs with breaks? 10:25 without?…

Kyhv Peak - Squawstruck

5.11b, 22 pitches

Overall 35 min approach Mostly ~5.9 climbing, very well bolted Can link many pitches with 60m, 15 pitches when linking the typical ones with max of 23 bolts 23 draws = 17 sport, 4 alpine, 2 double alpine ~6 hours of climbing Have to scramble/walk between pitches 5 times Walk off descent back to car…

Moses - Primrose Dihedrals

5.11+, 7 pitches

Getting there Drive to Taylor Campground (high clearance / 4WD recommended). Camping requires reservation and is $30. 20-30 min hike in. 500 ft gain, 0.9 miles. P1: 5.8 From the north side of the tower, climb down a few feet (but not more) and then up onto an exposed ledge which leads around the corner…

Mongegjura (Norway) - Sydpilaren

5.10, 25 pitches

6 ★★★Sydpilaren, 1135m Trad climb in Åndalsnes Område | theCrag Gear #4 used in one video, maybe 0.3-4 with nuts? Might want some doubles but maybe good enough? Crack gloves Alpine draws Getting there theCrag says to park here: https://goo.gl/maps/X5qEZCtyyXtDVQ4t8 Confirmed that you park at the church/graveyard dirt parking lot. Not sure where to hike…

Mt Habrich - Life In Space

5.10b, 27 pitches

Approach About 1 hour, high clearance required. Park at a pullout on the left identified by a large rockslide. Locate the cable burma bridge to cross the Stawamus River and follow the good trail to the base of The Fluffy Kitten Wall (30-40 minutes). From there, a crude trail continues right to the Stawamus River…

Dragontail Peak - This, My Friend

5.10a, 5 pitches

Gear 60m rope Rappel sling in case we have to set a rappel for descent Recommendations kmfoerster – At least a double rack of cams .2-2 and one #3. Metolius 00-1 proved quite useful too. With this route triples of certain sizes would not go unused. We had triples of .4-2, which we thought was…

Liberty Bell - Liberty Traverse

5.9, 25 pitches

Gear Double #0.3-3, single #4-5, #0.2 for Northwest Face of Liberty NW Face of Liberty – 0.2-3 with double 0.3-0.75. “mostly small gear, biggest is #3, maybe 0.2 would be helpful”, a number of ppl mention microcams, SuperTopo claims double 0.4-3, flakes section is all 1-3″ but hopefully only singles is good enough for me…

Unicorn Peak - Standard Route on Unicorn Peak

5.6, 1 pitch

A reasonably short (5 mile round trip, 2,561 ft gain) ski+tiny rock climb objective! With nearly 2,000 ft of open slope downhill skiing! You do have to put your skins back on to travel the remaining 1 mile back to the trailhead Climb [Credit to SummitPost] Described below are a few options one has to…

Pilier du Couchant - Albert

5.10c, 9 pitches

Overall 9 pitches of 5.9/5.10b/c climbing with about 30m each pitch All bolted Approach requires wading across the river, only knee deep in March and rocks mostly smooth so ok barefoot. The start is pretty obvious off a blocky ledge to the left of the tree. Walk off, ~40 min straightforward walk down Gear 60m…