Super Crack Tower - The Windows Route

5.10

A great route on a great tower with stunning scenery and no crowds. The climb starts up a face about 15′ left (up-gully) of the left side of the obvious corner/gully on the North Face. From Turkish Bride, walk up and left up “The Bowling Alley” to just past the big corner system shown on…

South Mesa - Vortex in a Can

5.10+, 3 pitches

A newer climb, more accurately rated (not sandbagged). Gear Most people seem to bring double 0.1’s for the crux P3 5.10+ pitch P1 – 5.10c Clip a couple bolts then head left into a layback flake. Climb this until it seems like it’s going to disappear, then head right over a small roof, where you…

Earthship - Maiden Voyage

5.9, 4 pitches

Maiden Voyage is a friendly cruise up the striking east buttress of the Earthship. Four short pitches of moderate slab climbing, including a memorable headwall crux pitch, lead to a spectacular summit towering above Boynton and Long Canyons. With a straightforward approach, sweeping vistas, and a minimal gear list (one set of quickdraws and just…

End Pinnacle - Endgame

5.10b, 5 pitches

Gear Double ropes (for rappel) or single 70m using intermediate anchors 15-20 draws #0.75 cam Nuts Approach 0.95 miles, 1,125 ft gain, ~30 mins? The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle. Beware of possible windy conditions and a shady and possibly very chilly first belay under a large boulder.…

The Sheepshead - The Peacemaker

5.10a, 7 pitches

Approach 1.2 miles, 750 ft gain, ~45 minutes. Located 50′ right of Absinthe of Mallet. When the approach trail hits the base of the Sheepshead, skirt the base right for about 50′ until you see the obvious slab with the bolt line headed straight up. Gear 15 quickdraws Some use a #0.5 and double #1,…

The Sheepshead - Ewephoria

5.8, 5 pitches

A mostly bolted climb (supplemental gear), but the first pitch is 100% trad. All anchors are bolted. Tops out! Walk-off descent! Gear 60m rope #0.3-2 with double 0.5-1 Nuts Many single and double alpine draws (sometimes wrapping chickenheads) NO walkie talkies (only one report of poor comms at the top) Approach 1.3 miles, 900 ft…

South Face - Wild Country

5.10b, 9 pitches

Overview Approach: 1 hr Climb: ~3 hrs Descent: 2 hours (walk off, bring shoes with you) Sounds very well bolted Gear 15 quickdraws (or 18-26 quickdraws if linking, including 6 alpine) Carry shoes for walk off Linking options P1-2 P3-4 P5-6 P7 P8-9 Approach <1 hr, 1.5 miles, 650 ft gain. P1: 5.7, 30m, ~7…

Heiliger Geist - Traumpfeiler (Pillar of Dreams)

5.9, 9 pitches

Key notes Finding bolts: Follow path of least resistance. Communications: Sounds like can be difficult especially when linking? But there’s cell reception once reaching the 2nd pitch. Time: ~6 hrs with short breaks 20 min approach ~3 hrs climbing ~1 hr rappelling 30 min back to car Gear 70m rope or two 60’s (needed for…

Yak Peak - Yak Check

5.9, 10 pitches

Weather SpotWX 10-day Approach ~60 minutes according to VMG. P1 – 5.7, ~55m Make 5.7ish moves left from the belay up a flake to gain the hand crack on the front face of the flake (small pro). Climb 5.6 crack to a belay out right at bolts near a pinnacle on the arete. ~55m P2…