6 ★★★Sydpilaren, 1135m Trad climb in Åndalsnes Område | theCrag Gear #4 used in one video, maybe 0.3-4 with nuts? Might want some doubles but maybe good enough? Crack gloves Alpine draws Getting there theCrag says to park here: https://goo.gl/maps/X5qEZCtyyXtDVQ4t8 Confirmed that you park at the church/graveyard dirt parking lot. Not sure where to hike…
Mt Habrich - Life In Space
5.10b, 27 pitches
Approach About 1 hour, high clearance required. Park at a pullout on the left identified by a large rockslide. Locate the cable burma bridge to cross the Stawamus River and follow the good trail to the base of The Fluffy Kitten Wall (30-40 minutes). From there, a crude trail continues right to the Stawamus River…
Dragontail Peak - This, My Friend
5.10a, 5 pitches
Gear 60m rope Crack gloves #0.1-3 with double 0.3-0.5 and triple 0.75-2, single #3. Nuts 14 draws (6 sport, 6 alpine, 2 double alpine) Radios? They’re long pitches, but seem like should have ok visibility. Rappel sling in case we have to set a rappel for descent Recommendations kmfoerster – At least a double rack…
Liberty Bell - Liberty Traverse
5.9, 25 pitches
Gear Double #0.3-3, single #4-5, #0.2 for Northwest Face of Liberty NW Face of Liberty – 0.2-3 with double 0.3-0.75. “mostly small gear, biggest is #3, maybe 0.2 would be helpful”, a number of ppl mention microcams, SuperTopo claims double 0.4-3, flakes section is all 1-3″ but hopefully only singles is good enough for me…
Unicorn Peak - Standard Route on Unicorn Peak
5.6, 1 pitch
A reasonably short (5 mile round trip, 2,561 ft gain) ski+tiny rock climb objective! With nearly 2,000 ft of open slope downhill skiing! You do have to put your skins back on to travel the remaining 1 mile back to the trailhead Climb [Credit to SummitPost] Described below are a few options one has to…
Pilier du Couchant - Albert
5.10c, 9 pitches
Overall 9 pitches of 5.9/5.10b/c climbing with about 30m each pitch All bolted Approach requires wading across the river, only knee deep in March and rocks mostly smooth so ok barefoot. The start is pretty obvious off a blocky ledge to the left of the tree. Walk off, ~40 min straightforward walk down Gear 60m…
Super Crack Tower - The Windows Route
5.10
A great route on a great tower with stunning scenery and no crowds. The climb starts up a face about 15′ left (up-gully) of the left side of the obvious corner/gully on the North Face. From Turkish Bride, walk up and left up “The Bowling Alley” to just past the big corner system shown on…
South Mesa - Vortex in a Can
5.10+, 3 pitches
A newer climb, more accurately rated (not sandbagged). Gear Most people seem to bring double 0.1’s for the crux P3 5.10+ pitch P1 – 5.10c Clip a couple bolts then head left into a layback flake. Climb this until it seems like it’s going to disappear, then head right over a small roof, where you…
Earthship - Maiden Voyage
5.9, 4 pitches
Maiden Voyage is a friendly cruise up the striking east buttress of the Earthship. Four short pitches of moderate slab climbing, including a memorable headwall crux pitch, lead to a spectacular summit towering above Boynton and Long Canyons. With a straightforward approach, sweeping vistas, and a minimal gear list (one set of quickdraws and just…
End Pinnacle - Endgame
5.10b, 5 pitches
Gear Double ropes (for rappel) or single 70m using intermediate anchors 15-20 draws #0.75 cam Nuts Approach 0.95 miles, 1,125 ft gain, ~30 mins? The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle. Beware of possible windy conditions and a shady and possibly very chilly first belay under a large boulder.…