Key notes Finding bolts: Follow path of least resistance. Communications: Sounds like can be difficult especially when linking? But there’s cell reception once reaching the 2nd pitch. Time: ~6 hrs with short breaks 20 min approach ~3 hrs climbing ~1 hr rappelling 30 min back to car Gear 70m rope or two 60’s (needed for…
Yak Peak - Yak Check
5.9, 10 pitches
Weather SpotWX 10-day Approach ~60 minutes according to VMG. P1 – 5.7, ~55m Make 5.7ish moves left from the belay up a flake to gain the hand crack on the front face of the flake (small pro). Climb 5.6 crack to a belay out right at bolts near a pinnacle on the arete. ~55m P2…
Upper Headwall - Guaranteed Rugged
5.10d, 33 pitches
Overall 3,500 ft of pure climbing! You don’t even have to move belays once! Yes, the climbing is all quite easy… yes, the 5.10 portion of the hard pitches are short and not sustained (some might complain too easy)… yes, there is some loose rock you have to be careful about, and yes the descent…
The Apron - Long Time No See
5.9, 9 pitches
Overall Well protected North-facing, great for hot days, mostly all shaded Bolted belays? P1 – 5.9, ~10m, 2 bolts Start up a fixed line to a small platform with a bolt just above your head. Clip it and pull onto the face. Kind of odd and awkward climbing, clip another bolt and you’re done.There is…
The Apron - Diedre
5.8, 6 pitches
Overall Very slabby. Including slab lay-backing Runout Gear #0.3-2 with doubles to 0.75 Logistics All bolted belays Approach Continue past this first crack and go up the ramp to the right. You’ll end up on a trail and be a few minutes away from the start of the route. P1 – 5.7, 55m Begin up…
The Apron - Calculus Crack
5.8, 4 pitches
Gear 70m rope – Makes one of the rappels easier and allows linking P4-5 Gear from 0.3-4 with double 0.3-2 Potentially even triple 0.5-0.75 if pushing grade Nuts Logistics Leave backpack at base, rappel returns close to base P1 – 5.9 “A committing move gets you off the ground. Work your way up pulling on…
The Sheriff's Badge - Angel's Crest
5.10b, 13 pitches
Resources Big credit to American Alpine Institute – Climbing Blog: Route Profile: Angel’s Crest (5.10b, IV), great writeup, most of this info is from them Big credit to BC – www.StephAbegg.com – SQUAMISH Climbing (google.com) for all the photos! Gear Doubles 0.3-2 and single #3, no #4 (one person brought it but never placed it)…
Whiskey Peak North Face - Frogland
5.8, 6 pitches
Overall If it weren’t for the runout, this would be a 4-star route. The approach is super easy, the climbing is overall fun, the belay ledges are nice, the descent (walk off) is super nice, it ends on a summit, etc. But the freaking runout on P4… it was barely within my comfort level (and…
Black Velvet Wall - Epinephrine
5.9, 13 pitches
Overall Steph’s notes We left the car at the Black Velvet parking area at 6 am and arrived at the base of the route around 6:40am. There was a party racking up and another party already on the route ahead of them. We waited a bit for the party ahead of us, and started climbing…