Dana's Arch - DGS

5.9, 3 pitches

With the possible exception of “The back road”, this is the easiest route to the top of the Upper Town Wall. Gear 70m rope + 20-30′ of additional pull cord Nuts and cams to wide-fist size. For the second pitch, it may help to have doubles in the hand size, or at least doubles of…

Morning Star Peak - Beyond Redlining

5.10+, 11 pitches

Credit to Mountain Project! Gear 60m rope (or 70m if need to bail route) 17 quickdraws, including 3-6 alpine Radios: Probably not needed? Beyond Redlining runs straight up the West Face of the Vega North Tower on excellent rock for 11 pitches (8 of them are 5.10). It finishes on the same summit as Mile…

Lexington Tower - East Face

5.9+, 10 pitches

Credit goes to… Mountain Project chossclimbers Steph Dasherton Summitpost Getting there Park at the pond (south side of highway) that is located approximately 1.2 miles east of the pass. Hike up the trail for 30-45 minutes to the base. There are a couple of options depending on the condition of the snowfield at the base.…

Prusik Peak - West Ridge

5.7, 4 pitches

This climb mainly goes up easier terrain on solid rock. The most distinctive pitch is near the top and goes up a short exposed slab (5.7). Otherwise the climbing is 5.5 or easier. Stay fairly close to the ridge proper looking for easiest path. Spectacular position and fun climbing make this a classic. It would…

Irene's Arete

5.8, 7 pitches

Really good climbing, maybe some route finding (with lots of variations) Resources https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105804852/irenes-arete https://www.summitpost.org/irene-s-arete/164644 (lots of good pitch-by-pitch descriptions) Steph’s writeup: http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/wyoming/disappointment Some good photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/dacus/sets/72157624912399758/with/4972144733/ https://drdirtbag.wordpress.com/2011/06/25/disappointment-peak-irenes-arete-iii-5-8/ Gear 60m rope Rack? Probably #0.3-#3, with doubles up to #2 Mountain Project: Gear to 3″ MP comment: Conservative rack would be doubles from 0.3-2 and one 3,…

Sky Pilot

5.7, 11 pitches

Resources https://www.mountainproject.com/route/112133991/sky-pilot https://wanderhigh.com/2013/09/01/idaho-alpine-climbing-sky-pilot-5-8-iii-on-peak-11280-in-the-pioneer-range/ http://fadgenfamily.blogspot.com/2018/09/sky-pilot-peak-11280.html http://scidaho.blogspot.com/2010/07/sky-pilot-iv-58-wildhorse-creek.html Video of P3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRO97fJ3JiU https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/idahooutdoorsforum/sky-pilot-5-7-trad-alpine-1200-ft-11-pitches-grade-t5900.html Schedule ~2 hr approach (both a mountain guiding service and wanderhigh’s blog said 2 hrs) ~6 hrs climbing (wanderhigh) ~3 hrs back to the car (wanderhigh) Descent After summiting, we descended the south side, followed the steep basin down to the creek (which we quickly…

Mountaineer's Route

5.9, 8 pitches

Resources http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Sawtooths-Idaho-Elephants-Perch-Mountaineers-Route Lots of photos: http://chossclimbers.com/testing/us/idaho/sawtooths/mountaineers-route-on-the-perch/ Some good photos including a closer topo: http://www.piquaclimber.net/past/mroute/mroute.htm Quick facts Supertopo says good route finding is a must, but it’s consistently fun and interesting climbing Gear 60m rope Rack? Going with 0.3-3, with doubles of 0.5-3, and 9 single alpines, 3 double alpine draws Mountain Project: Standard rack to…

Finger of Fate - Open Book

5.8, 6 pitches

Resources https://www.summitpost.org/the-open-book/168124 https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106531483/open-book Climb Pitch 1 – 5.8, 190′ Head up fun, well protected 5.6 warm-up terrain to the base of the corner proper. Hand jam for 10 feet, then through a short wide section(#4 camalot useful) to a decent ledge. Beautiful. Gear Belay. 190′. Pitch 2 – 5.8, 190′ Another longer wide section off…

Hawkins Thimble

Class 4

Driving: 2:20 hrs (Trailhead) Great trip report: http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1191502 Seems like people scramble up, but downclimb while being belayed. Gear Helmet Harness Rappel device Team gear Rope A couple cams/nuts Slings

Scatter Peaks

Class 3

2:15 hr drive. Looks like a neat remote scramble, maybe some class 5 options to explore, more photos on WTA https://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/scatter-peak https://www.summitpost.org/scatter-peaks/498453 Another report with photos: http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8024794