“The position and views are 5 stars; however, the rock quality is often incredibly poor and protection is poor/sparse on many pitches. Overall I’d give it 2.5 to 3 stars. Fun, but long day. This a serious route: it’s very commiting, being nearly impossible to bail above P1. Once you get above P1, you better…
Wild Hair Crack
Class 2
Remote climb in the pickets… I think only 2 or 3 pitches? 5.7 at the hardest? Himmelgeisterhorn is the peak. Resources Rhinoclimbs: The Mountains [TR] The Pickets – Himmelgeisterhorn – Wild Hair Crack 08/25/2017 – North Cascades – CascadeClimbers.com [TR] South to North Pickets Traverse- Goodell to Access Crks – Wild Hair Crack, East and West…
Three O-clock Rock - Total Soul
5.10b, 8 pitches
Eight pitches of slab climbing, mostly bolted but with some trad sections. Approach 40 minutes at a slow pace, 25 minutes at a quick pace. Super mild approach! There’s an actual hiking trail, it’s not a climbers trail! Follow the trail till it connects to the base of the wall (where Silent Running starts), and…
Three O-clock Rock - Silent Running
5.10b, 7 pitches
A popular, slabby route that’s mostly sport with a couple small cams. Does have long runouts but typically only on the easier terrain. The first 6 pitches only go up to 5.9+ and you can skip the last 10b pitch since you just rappel the route. Expect your calves to burn, it’s true slab with…
Vesper Peak - Fish & Whistle
5.10-, 5 pitches
A newer, more difficult, mixed trad/sport route on Vesper Peak. Sustained climbing up a nice friction slab, a tenuous seam and a long, exposed face. P1/2 and P3/4 are readily linked with a 60m rope. Rock quality on this part of the face is generally excellent. Pitch 1 – 5.10-, 80′, 5 bolts Crux pitch.…
Condor Buttress - Solitary Man
5.10-
Overall info Starts ~40m left of Condorphamine Addition All bolted anchors NOT bolted for rappel (you rappel Condorphamine Addition or walk off the back). Anchors do not have rap rings, only standard hangers. Communications are good, no need for walkie talkies unless linking P3-5. Linking possibilities… Link P3-5 as one mega-long-easy-pitch (~90m, requires simul) Would…
Condor Buttress - Condorphamine Addiction
5.10b, 7 pitches
Resources Mountain Project Choss Climbers: Condorphamine Addiction | chossclimbers.com Summitpost: Condorphamine Addiction : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost Overall A very popular slab climb, very well bolted sport, linkable as 3 pitches if desired. 1 hour approach. Descent rappels the route. Often can see 5 parties on the route later in the day. Bringing…
Morning Star Peak - Marvin's Ear
5.10b, 7 pitches
Most info from Rock Climb Marvin’s Ear, Northwest Region (mountainproject.com) Difficulty distribution 5.0 5.9 5.10 P3 – 100′ P1 – 100′P4 – 115′ P2 – 90′P5 – 100′P6 – 115′P7 – 100′ Gear 70m rope (needed for rappel) 11 quickdraws (3-4 alpine) Walkie talkies? Approach This tower is BEFORE (to the right of) Mile High…
Goat Wall - Prime Rib
5.9-, 11 pitches
Approach Pitch 1 – 5.4 Begin at a small fir tree. Head up easy 5th-class ledges to a large ledge with a bolted anchor next to a large fir. (5.4) Pitch 2 – 5.8 Steep face to an anchor. (5.8) Move to P3 Shift the belay to below a left-facing dihedral. Pitch 3 – 5.7 Up the dihedral.…
NEWS (North Early Winter Spire) - Northwest Corner
5.9, 5 pitches
Gear My recommended gear… Doubles #0.4-4, single #5 Crack gloves 60m rope (just enough to reach new rappels) People’s opinions… SuperTopo: Doubles 0.4-4, single #5 MP: Standard to #4 or #5, long runners Dasherton: Used a #4 and #5 dydayley: I had two 4’s and a five and was glad to have all of them.…