YDS rating 5.9
Pitches 5


  • Gets shade around 11am


  • 60m rope
  • Double #0.3-3, one or two #4’s
  • Nuts
  • Crack gloves

Getting there

Parking: Google Maps

From the middle of the wide pull-out on the right side of the Southside Drive, hike into the woods for ~100 yards passing a climbers’ information sign. Turn right on the Valley Trail (main thoroughfare). In about 200 yards, you’ll pass the first turn off on left (marked with a post with a carabiner sign). Keep going straight. In another 350 yards, you come to the second left turn off marked by another post (which was missing its carabiner symbol). Turn left and hike uphill for about 100 yards to the foot of the Middle Cathedral Rock (another carabiner post). Turn right and meet the start of the route in about 70 feet. Look for an obvious, right facing dihedral (chain anchors visible ~110 feet up, just left of the dihedral).

P1 – 5.9

Crux pitch. Begin in a right-facing corner on the right side of the pillar. Climb this slick corner to a final difficult move pulling onto the pillar itself. Belay at bolts.

P2 – 5.9

Head left and up a great 5.9 finger crack system to another bolted belay.

P3 – 5.8

Continue up through a 5.8 roof and then up a 5.8 OW (~50′ of 4″ crack, extra #4 makes this feel safer) to another belay. This pitch and the next are probably the best on the route — save a bigger cam for above the roof.

P4 – 5.8

Climb sweet twin cracks up to another bolted belay.

P5 – 5.9

Continue up one more pitch (beginning with a chimney) of nice cracks to a final belay.


6 raps with single 60/70.