Parent Kyhv Peak
YDS rating 5.11b
Pitches 22


  • 35 min approach
  • Mostly ~5.9 climbing, very well bolted
  • Can link many pitches with 60m, 15 pitches when linking the typical ones with max of 23 bolts
    • 23 draws = 17 sport, 4 alpine, 2 double alpine
    • ~6 hours of climbing
  • Have to scramble/walk between pitches 5 times
  • Walk off descent back to car
  • P2 has a “leap of faith” (couldn’t find anyone saying it was sketchy though)
  • 70 minute descent


P1 – 5.10b, 110′, 13 bolts

Sharp slab to chossy roof. Turn roof on left side. Hollow jugs above roof. Some crimpy moves lead to easier climbing two a two bolt anchor (bolts don’t have chains).

Links with P2 as 185′, 22 bolts

P2 – 5.8, 75′, 8 bolts

Cross from the pillar/tower to the main wall via the “Leap of Faith” and clip the chain anchor (this is where you rappel from if rapping the route). Climb up easy terrain to a dihedral.

🚶P2 to P3 scramble

Unrope and scramble up easy 3rd class terrain up to the big, sloping ledge. Angle right after the scrambling. (Keep your climbing shoes on. It’s a short walk.) Pitch 3 stars in a shallow, chossy dihedral.

P3 – 5.9, 60′, 8 bolts

Make some mantle moves on chossy rock. The rock gets better shortly. Go to the right of the bush on some 5.9 moves and belay on a nice ledge.

Links with P4 as 110′, 16 bolts

P4 – 5.10b, 50′, 7 bolts

Nice slab leads to steep climbing over the left side of the roofs. Belay at a great ledge.

P5 – 5.9-, 60′, 8 bolts

Go right, then up through the “Frosted Flakes” and some beautiful white rock. Turn a roof before the belay on a ledge.

DON’T link with P6 (P6 is tough).

P6 – 5.10c, 105′, 10 bolts

Climb through a band of chossy rock to the first crux, then head right over a sandy brown roof (second crux). Belay (3 bolts) on giant ledge.

🚶P6 to P7 move

Move up and left to the base of the next pitch, which starts just left of the edge of the pillar (belay at a flat spot to the right of the pillar).

P7 – 5.10a, 95′, 9 bolts

Turn the roof and climb up jugs on good rock to the ledge.

Links with P8 as 135′, 15 bolts

P8 – 5.8 or 5.10a, 40′, 5 bolts

Go up and right. Carefully stand on very tip of pillar and make an interesting move (5.8 or 5.10a, depending on how you do it) to the belay (3 bolts).

🚶P8 to P9 walk

Walk right a couple hundred feet to the base of the next buttress. Pitch 9 starts on a blunt arete to the right of a broad trough.

P9 – 5.8-, 110′, 11 bolts

Dirty climbing on somewhat suspect rock leads to a large, dirt-covered ledge. Belay at the base of the next section of cliff. Go right and then up at bolt 8, not straight up.

Links with P10 as 185′, 21 bolts

P10 – 5.10b, 75′, 9 bolts

Lots of slopers lead to a small roof. Funky climbing beyond the roof leads to a corner, then a layer of orange julius rock to the belay.

P11 – 5.8, 105′, 10 bolts

Go left on the ledge, then up past a couple shiny bolts to a ledge with a large pine tree. Head up steep part left of tree, then trend right to belay (hangers only).

🚶P11 to P12 scramble

Scramble up to flat spot and unrope. Put approach shoes on and head northwest uphill till you see a short red fixed rope. Scramble up short cliff band (using fixed line), then head up and left. You’ll see a dark cave/mine at the base of the next section of cliff. Aim for that, switchbacking your way up the slope to make it easier. Pitch 12 starts just right of the mine. The mine offers a nice respite from the sun.

P12 – 5.10c, 100′, 13 bolts

Thought-provoking slab climbing with a couple bulgy sections.

DON’T link, next pitch is also 10c and 100′.

P13 – 5.10c/d, 100′, 13 bolts

Climb up the steep wall using the cracks to a ledge. Climb up the steep funky flaring chimney thing to a large, sloping belay ledge.

P14 – 5.11-, 50′, 9 bolts

Tan slab with horizontals leads to a corner, which leads to a roof. Enjoy the exposure, get a rest right before the roof (there are bolted variations to the left and right here, as I didn’t know which would be easier. The left one is easier and better, and the right can lead to a bigger pendulum fall. So go left.) and then make insecure, desperate moves to the belay. This belay (an exposed stance) is the worst on the route.

Links with P15 as 110′, 17 bolts

P15 – 5.10b, 60′, 7 bolts

Climb up the face, then head into the corner to some guano-draped holds. At the roof, turn the arete to the right and face massive exposure as you crimp your way to the belay.

P16 – 5.10d, 50′, 7 bolts

Move the belay to two bolts 10 feet to the right. Climb up the very thin slab. Some balancy moves, some big moves. Hard pitch to read. Belay at 3 bolts.

🚶 P16 to P17 walk

Put approach shoes on. Go up the slope, using the fixed line if necessary, then head right along the base of the cliff. Continue right (east) a few hundred feet to a shallow, right-facing dihedral. There’s a 10′ length of rope attached to the first bolt, making it easier to see.

P17 – 5.9, 90′, 10 bolts

Climb the dihedral and pass a couple bulges to the belay.

DON’T link with P18, it’s a long tough pitch with 3 cruxes

P18 – 5.10c/d, 110′, 14 bolts

Long pitch with 3 cruxes. Make some burly moves to a big pocket, then more burly climbing leads up and left, left, left. The whole pitch angles left significantly.

DON’T link with P19, it’s also a tougher pitch

P19 – 5.10c, 75′, 10 bolts

Thin slab leads up and left to beautiful rock and then back right on desperate and tricky holds.

Links with P20 as 175′, 20 bolts

P20 – 5.8, 100′, 9 bolts

The “Marble Slab” pitch. Climb up a steepish section, then enjoy the sweet slab with cool rock to the next belay.

P21 – 5.9+, 105′, 12 bolts

Thin holds over a less-than-stellar roof make you wish you were at the top already.

Links with P22 as 195′, 23 bolts

P22 – 5.10, 90′, 10 bolts

Keep climbing up then right over some roofs with depressingly small holds.