Approach 1.2 miles, 750 ft gain, ~45 minutes. Located 50′ right of Absinthe of Mallet. When the approach trail hits the base of the Sheepshead, skirt the base right for about 50′ until you see the obvious slab with the bolt line headed straight up. Gear 15 quickdraws Some use a #0.5 and double #1,…
The Sheepshead - Ewephoria
5.8, 5 pitches
A mostly bolted climb (supplemental gear), but the first pitch is 100% trad. All anchors are bolted. Tops out! Walk-off descent! Gear 60m rope #0.3-2 with double 0.5-1 Nuts Many single and double alpine draws (sometimes wrapping chickenheads) NO walkie talkies (only one report of poor comms at the top) Approach 1.3 miles, 900 ft…
South Face - Wild Country
5.10b, 9 pitches
Overview Approach: 1 hr Climb: ~3 hrs Descent: 2 hours (walk off, bring shoes with you) Sounds very well bolted Gear 15 quickdraws (or 18-26 quickdraws if linking, including 6 alpine) Carry shoes for walk off Linking options P1-2 P3-4 P5-6 P7 P8-9 Approach <1 hr, 1.5 miles, 650 ft gain. P1: 5.7, 30m, ~7…
Heiliger Geist - Traumpfeiler (Pillar of Dreams)
5.9, 9 pitches
Key notes Finding bolts: Follow path of least resistance. Communications: Sounds like can be difficult especially when linking? But there’s cell reception once reaching the 2nd pitch. Time: ~6 hrs with short breaks 20 min approach ~3 hrs climbing ~1 hr rappelling 30 min back to car Gear 70m rope or two 60’s (needed for…
Yak Peak - Yak Check
5.9, 10 pitches
Weather SpotWX 10-day Approach ~60 minutes according to VMG. P1 – 5.7, ~55m Make 5.7ish moves left from the belay up a flake to gain the hand crack on the front face of the flake (small pro). Climb 5.6 crack to a belay out right at bolts near a pinnacle on the arete. ~55m P2…
Upper Headwall - Guaranteed Rugged
5.10d, 33 pitches
Overall 3,500 ft of pure climbing! You don’t even have to move belays once! Yes, the climbing is all quite easy… yes, the 5.10 portion of the hard pitches are short and not sustained (some might complain too easy)… yes, there is some loose rock you have to be careful about, and yes the descent…
The Apron - Long Time No See
5.9, 9 pitches
Overall Well protected North-facing, great for hot days, mostly all shaded Bolted belays? P1 – 5.9, ~10m, 2 bolts Start up a fixed line to a small platform with a bolt just above your head. Clip it and pull onto the face. Kind of odd and awkward climbing, clip another bolt and you’re done.There is…
The Apron - Diedre
5.8, 6 pitches
Overall Very slabby. Including slab lay-backing Runout Gear #0.3-2 with doubles to 0.75 Logistics All bolted belays Approach Continue past this first crack and go up the ramp to the right. You’ll end up on a trail and be a few minutes away from the start of the route. P1 – 5.7, 55m Begin up…
The Apron - Calculus Crack
5.8, 4 pitches
Gear 70m rope – Makes one of the rappels easier and allows linking P4-5 Gear from 0.3-4 with double 0.3-2 Potentially even triple 0.5-0.75 if pushing grade Nuts Logistics Leave backpack at base, rappel returns close to base P1 – 5.9 “A committing move gets you off the ground. Work your way up pulling on…