Cloud Tower - Crimson Chrysalis

5.8+, 9 pitches

This super classic of Red Rock Canyon NCA has a little bit of everything; cracks, face, big pro, small pro and is nine pitches long. The route is at the mouth of Juniper Canyon. The access is the same for Olive Oil, but Crimson is located on the Cloud Tower, which can be identified by…

Dark Shadows Wall - Dark Shadows

5.8, 10 pitches

Overall Gear #0.3-4 with double #0.75-3 P1- 5.5 Two good bolts to the anchor on the first pitch. Can link with P2 as 170′. P2 – 5.7, 60′ Take the right facing desert varnished dihedral from the bolt anchor, move left to the the belay anchors. P3 – 5.8, 120′ From the anchor continue up…

Pingora - Northeast Face

5.8+, 12 pitches

P1 – 5.8, 200′ Consider simul-climbing… From the rope-up ledge by a tree, traverse left on some 3rd class into some 5.8, and then continue left on 2nd class and then belay as high as possible. P2 – 5.7, 165′ P3 – 5.7 P4 – 5.8, 160′ P5 – 5.7, 165′ Descent After reaching the…

Pontatoc Ridge - Void of Form

5.9, 10 pitches

Super awesome 10 pitch sport climb, super well bolted! Basically the Arizona equivalent of Washington’s Prime Rib of Goat. THIS ROUTE IS CLOSED JAN 1 TO APRIL 30 EVERY YEAR. Please respect the closure. This will help enable Bighorn Sheep to thrive and will help to maintain positive access relationships with local land management. Gear If…

Courthouse Butte - Coyote Tower

5.10c

Gear #0.2-4 with doubles 0.3-3, nuts Double 60m rope Approach 0.8 miles, 400 ft gain? 25 mins? Take the trail below and past the tower until there is a gully that comes into view to the right of the tower. Head up towards the gully, but go left below the steep slabs guarding the tower.…

Nirvana Buttress - Nirvana

5.9, 3 pitches

Gear Singles #0.3-5 Or can skip #5 if confident, or doubles of probably #4 if unconfident… Gear is only needed on P1 except for one #3 at the top of P2 as a directional for your follower No nuts Single 70m rope (or 60m but then have to do one extra rappel) 1 webbing for…

Touched By An Angel

Class 2

Gear Either single 70m rope or double 60m ropes for rappel #0.2-5 with doubles 0.4-3 (and maybe #0.0-0.1?) Approach 2 miles, 1,000 ft gain, 45 mins, somewhat bushwacky at end. Overall The “hand crack” climb (somewhat a fist crack), has a “tunnel” squeeze at one point and a slight traverse on a ledge, and P4…

Queen Victoria - Regular Route

5.7, 2 pitches

Gear Single #0.3-4 Some like #5 for P2 offwidth but some do without if strong climbers Single 60m rope No nuts No radio Chacos/tevas fine for approach No rappel webbing needed (bolted rappel anchors) Approach 1.2 miles, 760 ft gain, ~40 mins. On a trail except the last 0.2 miles. Time estimate 4 hours with…

Gibraltar Rock - Sedona's Scenic Cruise

5.9, 5 pitches

Gear #0.3-4 with double #0.75-3 Double 60m ropes Approach 2 miles, 1,100 ft gain, ~1hr, last half mile is off trail but has numerous cairns and pretty well travelled. Overall This one has the “scenic” traverse. Several people get stuck ropes while rappelling the first two rappels, and you need double ropes for rappelling. No…

Summit Block Rock - Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride

5.9, 4 pitches

Gear #0.5-#4 with double #0.5-3 (primarily just for P2), triple #1-3 if you want to link P1-2 (but that’s like 190′ linked and difficult) Single 60m rope 9 single alpine draws and 1 double alpine Nuts (I used 1 nut each on P1-2) Communication is mostly good, P2 can be tough to hear but basically…