Parent Half Dome
Miles 12.9
Elevation gain 4350
Highest elevation 8842
YDS rating 5.7
Pitches 8
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Overview

  • Cables usually go up around June timeframe (permits are required when cables are up). When we went on April 2nd, the descent was snow free except for some snow on the lower lump.
  • Linking
    • Some link P2-3 (by starting on the anchor above traditional P1)

Time estimates

  • C2C: 12 hrs with breaks? 10:25 without?
  • Approach: 4 hours, 5.3 miles, 3,500 ft gain
  • Climb: 8 pitches, 20 mins/pitch? 2:40 hours?
  • 3rd class to top: 850 ft gain, 30 mins
  • Down the cables: 15 mins
  • Hike back: 7.5 miles, 4,500 ft descent, 3 hours?
  • Potential timeline (6:13 sunrise in April, 7:41 sunset on Apr 22)
    • 5:40 AM – Hiking
    • 9:40 AM – Base
    • 10:00 AM – Climbing
    • 12:40 PM – Done with roped climbing
    • 1:00 PM – 3rd class to top
    • 1:30 PM – Top
    • 2:00 PM – Down the cables
    • 2:15 PM – Done with cables
    • 2:30 PM – Hike back
    • 5:30 PM – Trailhead

Gear

  • 70m rope (easier in case you come short on a belay, and could link 4-5 (10ft left) and 7-8 (entire rope)
  • Prusik for descent
  • 7 quickdraws (2 double, 2 single, 3 sport)
  • #0.2-2 with optional double 0.2 and 0.5
  • NO nuts

Approach

3-4 hours

  • One of the exposed sections of the approach

Overview

P1 – 5.7, ~160′, one tree, some cams

Climb directly up to the left edge of the roof from low angle ground off to the left (protects better and more direct than standard start). Climb over the left of the roof, and then up and onto a nice belay ledge. Continue up 5.5 to a bolted anchor.

The ideal higher bolted P1 anchor.

P2 – 5.7, ~80′, 1 bolt, 1 cam

Head right and pull a small overhang (0.75″ piece), clip a bolt shortly after, then run it out about 40 feet to the next bolted anchor.

  • Start of P2
  • P2
  • Top of P2?

P3 – 5.7, 160′, 2 bolts

“Blank slab” up and left for 35 ft to the first bolt and then reach the dike. Do not climb right to the right dike, it is off-route leading to Snake Dance. Skip another bolted belay, climbing up the dike past a bolt and easier climbing, and up to a bolted belay. I prefer using a bolted belay out right here on a nice ledge, but there is one higher on the dike itself.

P4 – 5.4, 140′, 1 bolt

Follow the dike. No bolt until the intermediate anchor at 65′ (keep going).

  • Starting P4

P5 – 5.4, 135′, 1 bolt

Follow the dike. One bolt closer to the start, maybe a couple chicken heads to sling higher up.

P6 – 5.4, 120′, 1 bolt

Follow the dike. One bolt right before the end.

P7 – 100′

Climb off to the right to access a right-facing flake/corner with a crack behind it. Belay from gear (0.4 gear) on a ledge formed by flakes.

Can link with P8 (takes entire 70m rope).

P8 – 130′

Move way left to gain a right-leaning easy ramp, then continue up through or around roofs to belay on low angle ground off of gear.

Scramble to top

Slab for days.

Reports

Snake Dike on Half Dome 2024

Timeline 5:48 AM – Hiking to base (3:07 hours) 8:55 AM – Base 9:24 AM – Climbing 12:54 PM – Top of official route (3:30 hours) Unroped maybe an hour later 2:20 PM – Official top (5 hours base to top) 2:45 PM – Cables 3:00 PM – Done with cables (15 mins down cables)…

April 22, 2024 By andrewleader