Gear #0.1-3 with double #0.3-3 (0.1-0.2 are for NEWS West Face) Beckey Route: Double 0.4-3 (since simul-linking P1-2 and P3-4), slings, no nuts North Face Double 0.3-3 and nuts (since linking P2-3) OR Cave Route (slower): #0.3-3 with double #2-3 NEWS: #0.1-3 with double 0.3-3 SEWS needs double 0.3-3, optional #4-5 or South Arete only…
Liberty Bell - Beckey Route (SW Face)
5.6, 4 pitches
Gear #0.4-3 with optional double 0.5-2 Nuts Many slings 60m rope Overview P1 – 5.3, 130′ Climb the chimney/tunnel (easier) OR the face to its left (a little more sustained), belay from a large ledge with a tree. P2 – 5.5, 130′ Continue up the chimney for about 30m, climbing past chockstones and blocky slabs…
Goat Wall - Born in Time
5.10, 8 pitches
Overview Very well bolted. The main con seems to be that it’s still a little dirty (mainly the upper pitches, the lower pitches are quite clean). People have had some holds blow on P6 and P8 (be aware of climbers above), and some lichen up there. Starts just right (and maybe down?) of Methow Inspiration…
Valhalla - Earl Gray
5.9, 8 pitches
Overview Well bolted route ascending some pretty good rock, although rock quality decreases after P5. Route does wander a bit, especially on P4. 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 🪢 🪢 🪢🪢 🪢🪢🪢🪢 Gear Single 60m rope 14 draws (6 sport, 7 single alpine, 1 double alpine) Approach 0.5 miles, 760 ft gain, ~30 mins? Park at…
Goat Wall - Restless Natives
5.11c, 11 pitches
Routes like Methow Inspiration Route, Prime Rib, and Sisyphus are better quality and more traveled for sure. However, if you’ve done all of those and are looking for another long route then this should definitely be on your radar. Unlike the other routes this one is very sustained. The crux pitches may not be more…
Illusion Wall - Excalibur
5.10+, 10 pitches
Overall Really well liked aside from the approach (some bushwacking, some steep slab, some trickiness). Otherwise, good mixture of slab climbing, featured climbing, corners, pretty good belay stances, quite well protected. Time estimates C2C: 10 hours Approach: ~2 hrs, some even took 3 hours Climbing: 5 hours (30 min/pitch) Rappel: 1 hour (6 double 60m…
Three O-clock Rock - The Kone (Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route)
5.9, 5 pitches
Time estimates C2C: 4.5 hours including 20 mins of transition time Approach: 40 mins or less Climbing: 2 hours (25 min/pitch) Rappel: 40 mins (4 rappels with single 70m) P1 – 5.9, 5 bolts Climb up the middle of the sweeping slab between left facing flakes. After the first bolt, place a #0.5 cam in…
Goat Wall - Methow Inspiration Route
5.9+, 5 pitches
Rebolted in 2022, this is now a decently well bolted route! Any mentions of “30 ft runouts” are outdated. Gear 60m rope 15 draws Overview 20 min approach 2:00 hrs climbing? (20 mins/pitch?) 1:00 hr rappelling? (6 rappels) 4 hours car-to-car? 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 🪢 🪢 🪢 🪢🪢 Approach About 20 mins. Park next…
Goat Wall - Sisyphus
5.11a, 7 pitches
Gear 60m rope 14 draws (10 sport, 4 single alpine) Radios (comms on P3 and P7 are a little difficult) Optional #3 cam for P3 (not really necessary, it’s easy) Approach The climbing up to the base is 4th class and is easily scrambled, just beware of loose blocks. Park at the Goat Wall parking…
Main Wall of Lover's Leap - Corrugation Corner
5.7, 3 pitches
Overview Gear #0.3-4, with double #0.5-3 Nuts 60m rope Backpack with shoes (walk off) Approach ~35 mins, 0.6 miles, 551 ft gian. P1 – 5.6, 140′ Traverse right after the bulge at top to belay ledge. P2 – 5.7, 130′ Climb up 20-30 feet, then traverse out left to arete. Beached Whale move at end.…