Gear Double #0.3-3, single #4-5, #0.2 for Northwest Face of Liberty NW Face of Liberty – 0.2-3 with double 0.3-0.75. “mostly small gear, biggest is #3, maybe 0.2 would be helpful”, a number of ppl mention microcams, SuperTopo claims double 0.4-3, flakes section is all 1-3″ but hopefully only singles is good enough for me…
Unicorn Peak - Standard Route on Unicorn Peak
5.6, 1 pitch
A reasonably short (5 mile round trip, 2,561 ft gain) ski+tiny rock climb objective! With nearly 2,000 ft of open slope downhill skiing! You do have to put your skins back on to travel the remaining 1 mile back to the trailhead Climb [Credit to SummitPost] Described below are a few options one has to…
Pilier du Couchant - Albert
5.10c, 9 pitches
Overall 9 pitches of 5.9/5.10b/c climbing with about 30m each pitch All bolted Approach requires wading across the river, only knee deep in March and rocks mostly smooth so ok barefoot. The start is pretty obvious off a blocky ledge to the left of the tree. Walk off, ~40 min straightforward walk down Gear 60m…
Super Crack Tower - The Windows Route
5.10
A great route on a great tower with stunning scenery and no crowds. The climb starts up a face about 15′ left (up-gully) of the left side of the obvious corner/gully on the North Face. From Turkish Bride, walk up and left up “The Bowling Alley” to just past the big corner system shown on…
South Mesa - Vortex in a Can
5.10+, 3 pitches
A newer climb, more accurately rated (not sandbagged). Gear Most people seem to bring double 0.1’s for the crux P3 5.10+ pitch P1 – 5.10c Clip a couple bolts then head left into a layback flake. Climb this until it seems like it’s going to disappear, then head right over a small roof, where you…
Earthship - Maiden Voyage
5.9, 4 pitches
Maiden Voyage is a friendly cruise up the striking east buttress of the Earthship. Four short pitches of moderate slab climbing, including a memorable headwall crux pitch, lead to a spectacular summit towering above Boynton and Long Canyons. With a straightforward approach, sweeping vistas, and a minimal gear list (one set of quickdraws and just…
End Pinnacle - Endgame
5.10b, 5 pitches
Gear Double ropes (for rappel) or single 70m using intermediate anchors 15-20 draws #0.75 cam Nuts Approach 0.95 miles, 1,125 ft gain, ~30 mins? The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle. Beware of possible windy conditions and a shady and possibly very chilly first belay under a large boulder.…
The Sheepshead - The Peacemaker
5.10a, 7 pitches
Approach 1.2 miles, 750 ft gain, ~45 minutes. Located 50′ right of Absinthe of Mallet. When the approach trail hits the base of the Sheepshead, skirt the base right for about 50′ until you see the obvious slab with the bolt line headed straight up. Gear 15 quickdraws Some use a #0.5 and double #1,…
The Sheepshead - Ewephoria
5.8, 5 pitches
A mostly bolted climb (supplemental gear), but the first pitch is 100% trad. All anchors are bolted. Tops out! Walk-off descent! Gear 60m rope #0.3-2 with double 0.5-1 Nuts Many single and double alpine draws (sometimes wrapping chickenheads) NO walkie talkies (only one report of poor comms at the top) Approach 1.3 miles, 900 ft…
South Face - Wild Country
5.10b, 9 pitches
Overview Approach: 1 hr Climb: ~3 hrs Descent: 2 hours (walk off, bring shoes with you) Sounds very well bolted Gear 15 quickdraws (or 18-26 quickdraws if linking, including 6 alpine) Carry shoes for walk off Linking options P1-2 P3-4 P5-6 P7 P8-9 Approach <1 hr, 1.5 miles, 650 ft gain. P1: 5.7, 30m, ~7…