Weather forecasts

Approach

About 1 hour, high clearance required. Park at a pullout on the left identified by a large rockslide. Locate the cable burma bridge to cross the Stawamus River and follow the good trail to the base of The Fluffy Kitten Wall (30-40 minutes). From there, a crude trail continues right to the Stawamus River Headwall. The base of the route is near the top of a prominent fallen tree, the start being a nondescript but most obvious weakness through this section of the wall.

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P1 – 5.6, 60m

The least inspiring pitch. Climb the most obvious corner weakness with some bush pulling.

Move

Move the belay left 8m on 3rd class terrain.

P2 – 5.10a, 30m

Step right of anchor to gain a wide flake, at the top of the flake move slightly right past a bolt into a shallow groove, at it’s top step back left past the main corner and climb the juggy arete to nice belay ledge.

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P3 – 5.10a, 35m – “Baby Pillar”

Move left into the obvious corner using either the hand crack in the corner or the adjacent face splitter or both. Finishes with an awkward bulge past a bolt and a bit of step kicking to the belay.

Can link with P4 (50m linked)

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P4 – 5.8, 15m

Up the awkward, steep corner which quickly relents to easier terrain.

P5 – 5.9, 15m

Climb the deep finger crack on the right side of a scruffy weakness. Move right past a bolt to the most righthand fingercrack.

Can link with P6 (50m linked)

P6 – 5.8, 35m – “Spiny Dykes”

step right off the belay and then up, trending right to a difficult to spot bolt. Nice face climbing on cool dyke feature links intermittent cracks. The bolted belay is off the line to the left at the top of the pitch.

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P7 – 5.9, 30m

Pass bolt off the belay and move right to a clean slab passing another bolt to a horizontal crack which traverses left and past a final bolt at the crux bulge.

P8 – 5.10a, 25m – “Triple Cracks”

Climb the excellent thin cracks to final thin face move right to the belay.

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P9 – 5.10a, 30m

Follow the deep handcrack until it thins out and vanishes, from here follow the dyke feature right past bolts and trick crux around an arete, once around the arete step (traverse) down and right to belay on a small stance (note: it is easy to miss this belay and continuing up the next pitch will result in horrible rope drag!)

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P10 – 5.10b, 25m – “Overhang Bypass”

Climb the handcrack in the back of a flaring corner, at it’s top traverse right along another amazing dyke feature to an exposed crux right on the edge of a tilted arete. Easier climbing  takes you to an eagles perch belay.

Can link with P11 (50m linked)

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P11 – 5.9, 25m

Stimulating face climbing past several bolts and then traverse easy ledge up and right to belay.

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P12 – 5.8, 60m – “The Balconies”

Right trending face climbing through gritty low angle terrain. Several bolts mark the path. Aim for a shallow right facing corner at the top which leads you onto a deep belay ledge below the headwall. Good bivy spots can be found in the vicinity of this pitch.

P13 – 5.9, 35m

Move right off of the belay into a steep, right facing flake crack. Continue up corner above, move left past a bolt and up aesthetic, steep finger cracks until it is possible step left again onto a ledge past a large tree to a horn belay at the bottom of a deep corner.

P14 – 5.8, 30m

Climb the beautiful hand crack in back of deep corner, the climbing eases with some nice stemming and well protected chimneying above.

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P15 – 5.10a, 20m – “Vedauwoo Crack”

battle up a final steep handcrack in the back of an awkward flare.

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Walk

Walk west into the the heather meadows and boulder strewn basin below Mt Habrich, an easy five minute walk gains the base of the steep headwall. The next pitch starts at the bottom of an obvious right slanting ramp and chimney system.

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P16 – 5.7, 35m

Find the easiest way up the short vertical wall gaining an easy ramp system the belay is at the base of a clean dihedral.

P17 – 5.9, 25m – “The Sport Pitch”

Climbs the wide corner system. one #4 protects the start otherwise the rest of the pitch is fully bolt protected, it is possible to avoid any wide crack moves by face climbing and stemming but this will bump the letter grade up a notch.

Can link with P18 (40m linked)

P18 – 5.9, 15m – “Chimney Pitch”

Walk up the stairs into the back of the chimney, a nice finger crack eases the difficulty until an awkward section leads past a bolt towards the light, a few tough wriggles at the end will keep you honest.

Move

Move the belay left 5 m to a single bolt belay

P19 – 5.8, 12m

A crux mantle early on gives way to a nice double hand crack and a finely situated belay where you can admire the following pitch.

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P20 – 5.10a, 40m 35m – “Obvious Corner”

Climb the strikingly obvious corner, steep and sustained. #3 useful near the top.

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Walk

Walk approximately 100m through boulders to the bottom of another striking, right facing corner.

P21 – 5.8, 40m 35m – “Four Star Corner”

Climb the attractive fingers and hands corner crack a on perfect, green tinted granite. An awkward roof crux around a big block leads to the anchor.

At this point the climb merges with the NE Ridge. Many variations are possible but the best climbing alternates to either side of the ridge seeking out the best quality pitches. Following the description will reward you with a classy alpine rock experience. The subsequent pitches do NOT have bolted anchors. There’s typically flagging to help direct you the right way.

P22 – 5.6, 12m

Traverse immediately right of the belay and up a short splitter fingers step.

Can be simul’d through to the top of P27 in one block.

P23 – 5.7, 20m

Traverse right along a narrowing ledge on the north side of the ridge and then up a steep handcrack.

P24 – 5.7, 30m

Two perfect handcrack options present themselves on the east side of the ridge, the lefthand being the longest. Continue up bushy terrain until the ridge steepens again.

P25 – 5.7, 30m

Walk rightwards to the north side of the ridge, ignore the first two blocky and loose looking systems as the third system provides another solid handcrack.

P26 – 5.5, 20m

climb the literal arete of the ridge moving to the left side of the ridge.

P27 – 5.5, 20m

The last steep step of the ridge has several good options all of which culminate in a sudden arrival on the summit of Habrich, a perfect alpine top out!

Descent

1.4 miles, 3,541 ft descent.

From the top of Mt Habrich (from the anchor you topped out on), make 5 to 6 straightforward rappels (a little walking between some of them) toward the west to the notch between Habrich and Polar Dome.

Then hike over Polar Dome 0.2 miles to the next notch.

Then descend the escape gully north into the lower basin and ascend slightly east to gain the forested rib descent for Goldilocks Zone, this descent is rough with several handlines and will be very difficult to follow in the dark ~2+ hours from the notch.

Plans