1.2 miles, 750 ft gain, ~45 minutes. Located 50′ right of Absinthe of Mallet. When the approach trail hits the base of the Sheepshead, skirt the base right for about 50′ until you see the obvious slab with the bolt line headed straight up.
- 15 quickdraws
- Some use a #0.5 and double #1, or cams of #0.3-0.75
P1: 50m, 5.10a
Slab climbing past a small lip for 9 bolts. Slight runout 2/3rd of the way up. Follow the last 3 bolts up left into the chimney. The finish is on some steep ground with a little chimney move. 12 bolts, good stance belay
P2: Shorter pitch, 5.10a
Follow the bolts up the arete past several roofs with jug holds to another good stance. Awesome pitch with fun moves!
Starting P2 Halfway up P2 End of P2
P3: Longer pitch, 5.10a
Up and right following the bolts. The climbing is easier to the right of the bolt line. It is possible to skip a clip or two here and stay on the easier ground to the right, but don’t fall then. Finish the pitch on a bear hug of two cracks to another good stance belay
Near start of P3 Finishing P3 End of P3
Crux pitch. Start right up the overhang from the belay and the crux is the multiple slab sections above. Look for hidden face holds. Probably harder for short people. Finishes on a great ledge right of a tree/bush
P4-5 Start of P4 (roof move) P4 Top of P4 anchor
P5: Short and easier pitch. 5.10a
Moves off the ledge past several bolts left of the tree above, then suddenly very easy climbing leads to a gigantic ledge with bolts all over the place.
P6: 50m, <=5.10a.
The original route follows the bolts up from the anchors slightly to the left. The far left route at the shuts is Stampede and those last two pitches go at 5.10d and 5.10c. The right hand line of bolts from the anchor is the last 2 pitches of Mad Cow Disease (5.10d). Keep climbing ~20 more meters past the Mad Cow Anchor.
Can be linked with P7 with a 60m rope.
Can be linked with P6 with a 60m rope. Several final bolts to the top 2 bolt anchors.
End of P7
Continue up on 3rd class to summit and sign the register marked by an elaborate cairn pile.
25 min walk back to base of climb