A mostly bolted climb (supplemental gear), but the first pitch is 100% trad. All anchors are bolted. Tops out! Walk-off descent!
- 60m rope
- #0.3-2 with double 0.5-1
- Many single and double alpine draws (sometimes wrapping chickenheads)
- NO walkie talkies (only one report of poor comms at the top)
1.3 miles, 900 ft gain, estimated 1 hour. Take the approach trail to where it meets the dome at Absinthe of Mallet. Follow a trail left, contouring around the dome and working up until reaching the 1st pitch ramp/dihedral (see picture). Note that you can’t see the 1st belay bolts from the ground.
Up the dihedral until a bolt leads out left, then up to a bolted belay. This pitch looks super-easy from the ground but is surprisingly harder than it looks. Gear: small to 3″.
Move left for a move or 2, then up past bolts & small cams.Then climb up and right to a bolted belay just left of the gully. Do not go all the way to the gully. Gear: a few small-medium-ish cams.
Follow the tightly bolted line up a slippery slab to a headwall. More bolts take you up and right past the headwall. Run it out a bit on giant holds to a bolted belay amid the huge chickenheads. It is possible to get some gear by slinging chickenheads and/or large nuts/hexes between the plates. Gear: a couple big nuts/hexes and some long runners.
Climb straight up past more chickenheads, then up and right past bolts to a large ledge & comfy, bolted belay. Gear: 1 or 2 large slings or cord to wrap chickenheads.
P5 (TTTD 5.8 variation)
For a much better option, finish on on Too Tough To Die, which goes at 5.8. To do this, follow bolts up from the belay to a huge chickenhead. Surmount this, then climb up and right past bolts on an exposed slab to the top. Gear: an optional large nut/hex for the big chickenhead.
P5 (Original Chimney)
The regular route follows the large chimney on your right up to the top (the original finish for Absinthe).
Walk off toward the north and then back around down the gully back to the base. 0.3 miles, 500 ft descent.