Start date 20240422
Posted on

Timeline

  • 5:48 AM – Hiking to base (3:07 hours)
  • 8:55 AM – Base
  • 9:24 AM – Climbing
    • 12:54 PM – Top of official route (3:30 hours)
    • Unroped maybe an hour later
  • 2:20 PM – Official top (5 hours base to top)
  • 2:45 PM – Cables
  • 3:00 PM – Done with cables (15 mins down cables)
  • 3:07 PM – Hiking down (3:25 hrs, 7.6 miles)
  • 6:32 PM – Car (12:44 hours car-to-car)

Overview

P1

We took the safer left start, which still felt a bit runout. It’s slabby after the small tree, but once you get to the corner it’s nice. Top of the dihedral has a nice modern bolted anchor.

P2

Traverses hard right, then aim for the right-slanting dike at the roof (not the dike straight above). I placed a #0.5 around the roof. Continue up the right-slanting dike to a nice modern bolted belay. Short pitch.

    Our P3 (P3 + part of P4)

    Traverse back left on easier slab toward the dike on the left. There’s one bolt on the slab that’s easy to miss seeing till you’re right on it.

    If you traverse straight horizontal left to the main dike, there’s an off-route bolted anchor just left of that dike. Instead, continue up the dike.

    After maybe 30 feet of dike, you’ll see a bolted anchor about 7 feet off to the right, that’s a different route again, pass that anchor.

    Higher up on the dike there’s a bolt on the right side of the dike and a newer bolt on the left side. This is the normal P3 anchor.

    We continued further (probably a full 200′ pitch) to another 2-bolt anchor higher up.

    Our P4 (part of P4 + P5)

    This one was nearly a full 70m. From our anchor midway up P4 we continued, and then started to notice the few chickenheads on P5. The end of P5 anchor is a bolted anchor just above a huge hole in the rock (that currently had water). Tough to see the anchor till you get to it.

    Our P5 (actually P6), 120′

    Easy but runout. When you get to the face that goes up, it’s tough to spot the bolt near the end, but you go up the featured face (it’s easy, bolt is lower down on the face), and belay from another bolted anchor just above the face.

    Our P6 (actually P7-8)

    Nearly full 70m. Had to belay just below the big blocky rocks from a #1 and #2 on a ground crack.

    Our P7-onwards

    Reaching the huge arching crack was another ~100′, and we stayed roped up and did some simuling for quite a while. There’s gear options maybe every 80′.