- Starts ~40m left of Condorphamine Addition
- All bolted anchors
- NOT bolted for rappel (you rappel Condorphamine Addition or walk off the back). Anchors do not have rap rings, only standard hangers.
- Communications are good, no need for walkie talkies unless linking P3-5.
- Linking possibilities…
- Link P3-5 as one mega-long-easy-pitch (~90m, requires simul)
- Would not suggest linking anything with P2, as it is very zig-zaggy at the start.
P1 – 5.10-, 30m, ~9 bolts
I was told 5.9, 35m for P1, but I felt it was actually 5.10-, and it was definitely shorter than 35m. P1 climbs slabby terrain mostly straight up with one crux move that is especially slabby and challenging. Ends at a bolted anchor on a slight slabby ledge.
P2 – 5.10, 27m, ~8 bolts
I was told 5.10-, 30m, but I found it a bit more difficult and a bit shorter than 30m. This pitch starts by zig-zagging left and right (use alpine draws!) on slabby terrain following the newer series of bolts, and then follows a small dihedral moving left into the gully, and then climbs up the gully/arete eventually stepping back over onto the face of the wall to the bolted anchor.
P3 – 5.7, ~25m, ~4 bolts
I was told this is 5.6, but I thought it was a grade harder too. Definitely much easier climbing though than the previous two pitches. To start, traverse out right on easy terrain, and then head up on slabby terrain.
Linking: You can link pitches 3-5 with some simul-climbing at the end. I think it was roughly 90m linked, as a group of 3 with a 60m rope, the first follower started simuling just when I nearly reached the top of P4. P5 ends with really easy climbing on more positive holds/terrain and is actually quite frequently bolted, so it feels quite safe having your follower start climbing as you’re finishing P5.
P4 – 5.8, ~35m, ~8 bolts
This pitch has a slightly tougher move than the previous (a more slightly overhang move rather than slabby moves), but otherwise continues mostly straight upwards to the next bolted anchor.
P5 – 5.6, ~35m, ~6 bolts
Continue following the bolts through easier terrain on more positive holds/slab (yet still really well bolted) to the top!
After climbing Condor, we wanted to try out Solitary Man as a group of 3 with Josh and Alexis. The route is NOT bolted for rappels (you’re expected to rappel the other route, or walk off the gully). The route just has hangers, no rings/chains. P1 – 5.10-, 30m, ~9 bolts Our info claimed this…