A newer, more difficult, mixed trad/sport route on Vesper Peak.
Sustained climbing up a nice friction slab, a tenuous seam and a long, exposed face. P1/2 and P3/4 are readily linked with a 60m rope. Rock quality on this part of the face is generally excellent.
Pitch 1 – 5.10-, 80′, 5 bolts
Crux pitch. Slab, with rightwards traverse.
P1 is thin, technical, and not closely bolted. The party in front of us opted to skip the first pitch by climbing the 4th class gully to its left, but then they struggled on the 5.9 pitch which also involved a bit of run out slab. Sergey led this pitch like a champ. Here’s our beta: stay low during the initial traverse. After that, stay a little right of the bolt line (where the slab has a bit more friction) until the holds finally appear. Consider a panic draw for clipping the high (3rd?) bolt to make the run out a bit shorter.