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Resources

• Mountain Project
• Choss Climbers: Condorphamine Addiction | chossclimbers.com
• Summitpost: Condorphamine Addiction : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overall

A very popular slab climb, very well bolted sport, linkable as 3 pitches if desired. 1 hour approach. Descent rappels the route. Often can see 5 parties on the route later in the day. Bringing two 60m ropes is desired so can rappel the route in 3 rappels rather than 7 rappels.

Gear

• 60m rope (ideally two to make the rappel nicer)
• 12 quickdraws (20 if linking pitches in pairs of two, 22 if linking P1-3)
• A few alpine slings

Approach

Trailhead: https://goo.gl/maps/MAL5h4MtGFoyct8K9

Steph – “The climbers’ path to Condor Buttress is tricky to find. We never did find it on the way up, but on the way down we maintained the trail. Here’s my beta: Park at a pullout on the left about 0.25 miles down Icicle Road from Bridge Creek CG; find the trail at the boulder in the photo; after passing the boulder, immediately cut left and follow a path upwards to below Bathtub Dome; then follow the path under the base up, up, up and rightward towards Condor Buttress which you can see above. It is about 1500 feet and 1 hour above the road.”

JoanneF

The crux may have been finding it. The approach descriptions I found were confusing, so here are directions that are hopefully clearer: * From Leavenworth, turn on Icicle Creek Road and drive ~8.5 miles to the turn off for the Bridge Creek Campground. * Continue for ~.3 miles and park in third pullout on the left. * The climber’s path on the right side of the road (north) is just before the pullout. If the trail you see is next to a big boulder right next to the road, you’re at the wrong pullout – keep going to the next one. It’s a bit hard to see when you’re driving. This topo of the 8-Mile area may be useful. * Shortly after the start of the trail you’ll see an open, flat area next to a large boulder (The Sword/Underwear Rock). Take a left at the boulder. * The trail is well worn and has a lot of small switch backs – you’ll occasionally see cairns. * It can take ~30 – 40 minutes to reach Bathtub Dome (the only crag you’ll see with bolts). The trail continues to the right, along the bottom tier of Bathtub Dome. It’s blocky with lots of horizontal ledges/features – the Leavenworth guide has a good photo of that section. * Condor Buttress is the largest formation up and to the right of Bathtub Dome. * Find the start of Condorphamine Addiction on the right side of the buttress. The large roof just to the left of the route has an obvious white splotch.

The trail is pretty sandy but a decent approach.

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Topo

This can be linked in 3 pitches with a 60m rope. Much nicer if you don’t want to pitch out all 7.

• P1: Link P1 (5.8), P2 (5.9), P3 (5th class)
• P2: Link P4 (5.9), P5 (10b)
• P3: Link P6 (10b), P7 (5.5)

Alternatively some link in just pairs of two, 1&2, 3&4, and 5&6, and then climb 7 separately. “Rope drag is significant and a little annoying but manageable.”

P1 – 5.8, super short

A short 5.8 pitch leads up to a set of anchors low on the face (yes, those anchors).

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P2 – 5.9 – 90′

Work your way up the arête traversing from side to side on excellent, varied climbing. About half way up, a steep rightward traverse with no feet and a big jug offers super fun climbing. Move up to the top of the arête, then jamb the handcrack to reach your belay at the chains.

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P3 – 5th class, 60′

This pitch moves up lower angle terrain on mostly 4th class rock to reach the base of the steep buttress ahead.

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P4 – 5.9, 100′

Move up the steepening slab, angling right, working your way through interesting and fun climbing on small ledges, edges, and features.

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P5 – 5.10b, 95′

Now the fun begins. Work your way up and to the right towards the arête. The slab is quite a bit steeper here, but featured at the start. All of a sudden the holds disappear, and you have to perform a couple hard, thin slab moves with stemming. These sections were very interesting. Above that is more steep sustained thin slab, with excellent varied climbing. Good stuff. Reach the flat spot at the top, and belay at the chains.

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P6 – 5.10b, 90′

Keep working up the steep arête slab on more excellent climbing. This pitch is quite sustained, almost every move is 5.9 or 5.10A. About half way up you encounter another blank slab. This was the crux of the route for me. A hard thin slab move then several more slightly easier ones gives way to a ledge and the belay chains.

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P7 – 5.5, 60′

An easy romp to the top of the buttress and your done!

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Rappel

Rappelling the route is the preferred approach, sounds like the gully descent is really bad. 60m works fine but you have to use each anchor (7 raps). If you have two 60’s you can skip anchors and rappel in 3 raps…

• Rap #1 – To the top of P5
• Rap #2 – To the top of P3
• Rap #3 – To the ground (59 meters)

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