Weather forecasts

Overall info

• Starts ~40m left of Condorphamine Addition
• All bolted anchors
• NOT bolted for rappel (you rappel Condorphamine Addition or walk off the back). Anchors do not have rap rings, only standard hangers.
• Communications are good, no need for walkie talkies unless linking P3-5.
• Linking possibilities…
  • Link P3-5 as one mega-long-easy-pitch (~90m, requires simul)
  • Would not suggest linking anything with P2, as it is very zig-zaggy at the start.

P1 – 5.10-, 30m, ~9 bolts

I was told 5.9, 35m for P1, but I felt it was actually 5.10-, and it was definitely shorter than 35m. P1 climbs slabby terrain mostly straight up with one crux move that is especially slabby and challenging. Ends at a bolted anchor on a slight slabby ledge.

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P2 – 5.10, 27m, ~8 bolts

I was told 5.10-, 30m, but I found it a bit more difficult and a bit shorter than 30m. This pitch starts by zig-zagging left and right (use alpine draws!) on slabby terrain following the newer series of bolts, and then follows a small dihedral moving left into the gully, and then climbs up the gully/arete eventually stepping back over onto the face of the wall to the bolted anchor.

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P3 – 5.7, ~25m, ~4 bolts

I was told this is 5.6, but I thought it was a grade harder too. Definitely much easier climbing though than the previous two pitches. To start, traverse out right on easy terrain, and then head up on slabby terrain.

Linking: You can link pitches 3-5 with some simul-climbing at the end. I think it was roughly 90m linked, as a group of 3 with a 60m rope, the first follower started simuling just when I nearly reached the top of P4. P5 ends with really easy climbing on more positive holds/terrain and is actually quite frequently bolted, so it feels quite safe having your follower start climbing as you’re finishing P5.

P4 – 5.8, ~35m, ~8 bolts

This pitch has a slightly tougher move than the previous (a more slightly overhang move rather than slabby moves), but otherwise continues mostly straight upwards to the next bolted anchor.

P5 – 5.6, ~35m, ~6 bolts

Continue following the bolts through easier terrain on more positive holds/slab (yet still really well bolted) to the top!

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