Weather forecasts

A popular, slabby route that’s mostly sport with a couple small cams. Does have long runouts but typically only on the easier terrain. The first 6 pitches only go up to 5.9+ and you can skip the last 10b pitch since you just rappel the route. Expect your calves to burn, it’s true slab with your heels touching the ground!

Gear

• Double 60m ropes for rappelling
• Singles from #0.2-2
  • Useful primarily for P7 but can still place some elsewhere
• 12 draws (6 alpine, 6 sport)
• No need for nuts
• No need for radios
• Standard car sounds fine for dirt logging road

Approach

20-40 minutes on a well worn hiking trail. The Eightmile Creek trail climbs steeply through second growth and soon enters tall trees. There are some impressive old cedars along the way and about forty minutes from the car the trail leaves the woods and crosses an old somewhat overgrown talus slope. The trail bumps right into the rock at the base of Silent Running.

Topo

Pitch 1 – 5.6, 170′, 1 bolt

Sparsely bolted but easy. Climb from the low point of the slab from where the Eight Mile Creek Trail meets the cliff and goes along its base. There is a bolt about 20 feet above the right-facing dihedral. Two cam placements. Then climb to the anchors.

Pitch 2 – 5.8, 160′

Follow safe but spread-out bolts pretty much straight up to a set of anchors. Bolting improves after this pitch!

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Pitch 3 – 5.9+, 160′

This is a very heavily bolted pitch that climbs a more technical friction slab. The most sustained pitch on the climb as it does not let up.

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Pitch 4 – 5.8, 150′

Very fun pitch! Crux is the first two bolts directly off the belay then the climbing gets very easy climbing fun knobby rock. There is a fixed pin on this section (on the top of a curving crack to the left of you as you climb, you have absolutely nowhere to place gear for 40-50′ otherwise). The line the trends slightly left of a bush past two more bolts to anchors.

Pitch 5 – 5.8

This pitch climbs up and to the right following well bolted terrain to a two bolt anchor.

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Pitch 6 – 5.9+

This climb goes slightly left up though a slab squeezed between the bushes. This pitch has a couple hard balancy moves but is well bolted.

Pitch 7 – 5.10b, 160′

Follow several bolts up over some cool overlaps. Follow the small dihedral up to some very thin slab (crux) past two bolts. 20 more feet will bring you to the anchors.

Bring 4-6 pieces from .2 to 2 for the final pitch.

James Dexter

The final 10b pitch is by far the best on the entire route – it ties the whole climb together (and you actually get to place some gear). If you can climb 10b or want to give a well protected 10b a try, totally recommend it.

The final pitch we used 3(?)cams up to BD #2 size.

Seth Martin

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