Overview
Gear
- Radios (comms on P5 can be a little tricky with the mantle)
- Nuts
- Cams as seen below
- 70m rope
- Shoes/pack for scramble walk down
| 0.3 | 0.4 | 0.5 | 0.75 | #1 | #2 | #3 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | 2-4 | 2-4 | 2-4 | 2 | 2 | 1 |
Approach
P1 – 5.7 or 5.9
5.7 original
Starts up a sort-of left-facing easy gully/crack system to the tree, then the upper half steepens into a low-angle lieback corner, and then over a lip. Gear anchor, semi-hanging.
Link with P2 (67m linked) to avoid hanging belay (just make sure to flip the rop over the corner).
Start of P1 
Upper section layback 
Top of P1
5.9 variation
Go up the cool-looking (but seriously slippery) finger crack that angles right, then up.
P2 – 5.4
Head up a low-angle corner crack, basically 3rd class, belay on a relatively large ledge (with fixed slings?).
Start of P2 
End of P2
P3 – 5.7
Step right to gain a nice crack running up the wall. Climb to a stance below an overhang roof above. Gear belay, semi-hanging.
End of P3
P4 – 5.8, ~50m
Uses a lot of 0.4-0.75. Cut right on the roof, then traverse left on 5.8 slab to rejoin the crack system (old piton) before reaching the 5.8 hand-size splitter crack. Folllow a bit more 5.6 crack to a narrow ledge and belay, semi-hanging.
Start of P4
P5 – 5.8
Climb up to the corner system above and execute the infamous mantle (as long as you’re 5’5″ sounds fine). Place a 0.4 above the mantle. Continue above in a nice crack that takes you to a flat summit. The holds are pretty big and it’s over quickly.
Start of P5 
Top of P5
Descent
Scramble down off the back-left of the formation and down the gully back to the base.
The descent is mostly straightforward, fun, 5th class down-scrambling for a bit until you come to an obvious steep, rocky, switchbacked dirt climber’s trail; easily follow the path back to the picnic area parking lot.