Weather forecasts

Credit

• Thanks to https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8032143 which helped me find the right route documented below!

Gear

• Ropes: Two 30m’s or one 60m
  • The 2 rappels are just under 30m
  • When climbing, the second pitch is technically ~38m since it traverses more than the rappel (our 35m rope came up short and the belayer had to walk forward from the anchor 5-10 feet).
• Pro: A set of small-medium nuts (I used one offset smaller nut), 4 alpine draws were sufficient if you’re competent on trad 5.10-. Trail runners should be fine too if you climb 5.10-.

Approach

Access the east facing bowl of Spire (very close to the Ptarmigan Traverse route).

From there, scramble up the boulder field toward the middle of the peak. Once the boulders end, scramble easy class 3 ledges zig-zagging left for 15 feet and then back right for 15 feet, and then look to your left to find a left-facing low-5th “corner”, which is the start of P1.

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Pitch 1 – 5.3, 25m

This pitch is mostly low 4th/3rd class with one 5th class move in the middle. Climb the corner to the ridge. You’ll start to see the slings on the anchor when you’re 2/3’s of the way up.

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Pitch 2 – 5.3, ~38m

This pitch is more interesting, more sustained low-5th! You should be able to see the slings at the top from the anchor (they’re slightly on the right side of the peak). From the anchor, walk/scramble ~15m forward, staying a little right, till you’re directly underneath the peak and the walls start to get vertical. Then climb ~20m of low 5th rock straight up to the anchor. All things considered, the rock is decently clean and decently good quality. You can get in a couple nuts, and you’ll want something because it’s decently slabby and exposed. The final move to the anchor does a high step and mantle slightly to the right.

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Summit

It’s a pointy summit with no space to hang out. From that anchor you can roped-scramble 8 more feet to the true top. Only space for one person at a time!

Descent

Descend the route. Two 30m rappels get you back down!

Plans