Weather
Approach
~60 minutes according to VMG.
P1 – 5.7, ~55m
Make 5.7ish moves left from the belay up a flake to gain the hand crack on the front face of the flake (small pro). Climb 5.6 crack to a belay out right at bolts near a pinnacle on the arete. ~55m
P2 – 5.6, 60m
Climb crack to a bolted stance just above trees, belay standing on an impressive krummholz. 5.6 60m rope stretcher. can split this pitch in two at a slung tree half way up.
P3 – 5.6, 35m
climb crack to top of pinnacle (Lunch Ledge), belay 10 feet higher at bolts on higher ledge. Can link with P4 with 60m rope and long slings to avoid rope zigzags.
P4 – 5.7, 35m
climb sometimes crumbly rock left at first, then up and right (some pro behind flakes and a fixed piton) to a bolted stance.
P5 – 5.8, 50m
an obvious vertical wall can be climbed via a corner on the left side (5.8) or a series of face holds to a vague hairline crack on the right (5.8+) past a bolt that wasn’t placed on the first ascent and first showed up in the mid-2000s, then follow cracks and ramps up and right to a bolted belay 50m
P6 – 5.8+, 55m
move right from belay and climb a left facing 5.8 corner for about 10m then step right around arete at big hold (can also step right of corner at bottom but you miss out on the cool layback). climb up flakes, pass tree, up to two overlaps at a roofy feature. place gear then move thru overlaps into crumbly, easy groove, climb to bolt belay c. (junction of Yak Crack and Reality Check)
P7 – 5.9, ~50m
You are now leaving Yak Crack for Reality Check. Climb up 5m from the belay on rock resembling oatmeal, then move left on a solid horizontal dyke until you encounter many flakes. undercling left, then up at end of first flake, climb more flakes to highest undercling at roof. move left (5.9) awkward under roof, to corner “Cave”. there is a possible belay here under roof on a fixed nut and piton. HOWEVER, despite topos, it is best to go right here on to the arete of the cave and climb up about 10m (5.9 face) to a big ledge with bolted belay on the right. this avoids the spelunking tunnel thru the flake done on the FA which is awkward with a pack on, and avoids belaying on sketchy fixed pin and nut tied off with a single webbing chunk.
P8 – 3rd class, 30m
traverse ledge (top of through-flake) to a bolt belay on left.
P9 – 5.8, ~40m
Climb flake and ramp up and left, then back right a bit for a pitch ~40m 5.8, two bolts once the good crack ends
P10 – 5.10a, ~45m
Supposedly one of the two 10a pitches. face climb up 3m to a bolt, move up and right 3m to another bolt, then back left and up 5m to a corner (bolt on left arete) climb right of the corner up the face on dishes and flakes then move up and right on a nebulous line past more bolts and gear under flakes to a bolted belay on a small right facing corner/ramp (cant see belay until 5m below it). ~45m, easy 5.9 face, total of 5 bolts on the pitch plus gear. Can easily get into 5.10a terrain with lackluster route finding as the most direct line is not the easiest one.
P11 – 5.9, ~40m
Climb up flake above belay and either climb directly where it goes right, or move left and up good cracks on the face, to a ledge. above this is a low angle slab with 3 bolts. originally graded 9/10a by the FA party, subsequent ascents have cleaned holds on the slab of lichen making it more secure – now feels like an 5.8/9. belay at bolted stance on ledge above. ~40m 5.8/9 this is where you would rap from if you planned on rappelling. It’s **much faster and more enjoyable to walk off than it is to rappel though.**
P12 – 4th class, 45m
4th class up low angle slab (no pro) for full pitch to trees above. 45m 4th class. Can escape into trees lower down to the left if you want to. easiest way off is 10 m traverse hard left to the lowest trees, but there is more bushwacking this way.
From here, hike and scramble up towards the top, pass the subsummit on the right side on a good ledge (exposed).
Descent
~1.5 hours of an “easy walk off”, “well marked trail”, “friendly hike” according to VMG.