Resources
- https://www.summitpost.org/the-open-book/168124
- https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106531483/open-book
Climb
Pitch 1 – 5.8, 190′
Head up fun, well protected 5.6 warm-up terrain to the base of the corner proper. Hand jam for 10 feet, then through a short wide section(#4 camalot useful) to a decent ledge. Beautiful. Gear Belay. 190′.
Pitch 2 – 5.8, 190′
Another longer wide section off the ledge(#4 again, but small nuts protect crack out left, along with semi-tipped out #3 at top work okay) puts you below a crackless roof. Clip an optional sling belay anchor and smear out the face.(2nd best move of climb) Continue up easy blocky terrain to a slung chockstone. Belay here or gear belay up 10 more feet is more comfortable. 190′
Pitch 3 – 5.6, 150′
This pitch is a gimme. Tunnel up through a whole in the rock, avoiding the gaping chimney on the right,then up left on 5.5 terrain to the top of the dihedral onto the saddle. Great view! Gear belay or sling chockstone. 150′
Pitch 4 – 3rd class, 100′
Some route descriptions don’t count this as a pitch. Scramble up right to the highest point in a notch. Belay here on fat ledge. 100′
Pitch 5 – 5.7, 100′
Highest quality pitch I thought. Climb the beautiful hand crack that tends right up to a ledge, over the hundreds of feet below. Proceed left up a 5.5 slab to another fat ledge. (Note: this last slab section is very easy, 30-35 feet long, but there is no pro available. A fall here would be very serious, but it is quite easy as long as you did a good job with runners so there isn’t much rope drag. Plus this is good prep for the next pitch!) 100′
Pitch 6 – 5.9-, 120′
Most unique of the pitches. Climb straight up from your belay to a big whole in the summit block. Tunnel through either the right hole (smaller but better for rope drag) or the left (bigger, but worse for rope drag)to the other side. Then comes the coolest part (or scariest) of the climb. Make a 5.8 (topo says 5.9?) move off a fat ledge and lieback the unprotectable arete for 30 feet to the summit. Like the previous section, this could be bad if you fall, but the hardest part is right off the deck. The last 15 feet are 5.4 or less, so its only about 20 feet you need to worry about. We did not see the fixed pin mentioned on the topo. 3 bolt belay(1 bomber, 2 old). 120′
