- Well protected
- North-facing, great for hot days, mostly all shaded
- Bolted belays?
P1 – 5.9, ~10m, 2 bolts
Start up a fixed line to a small platform with a bolt just above your head. Clip it and pull onto the face. Kind of odd and awkward climbing, clip another bolt and you’re done.
There is a 10a direct start that looks thin and adds another 10m or so of climbing to this pitch by avoiding the fixed line and climbing directly up to the first bolt.
P2 – 5.9, ~35m
Easy climbing to a short roof below a flake, then wider climbing at a low angle – hands, fists and a few stacks. You could place a #5 if you were so inclined, but we found a single #3 and single #4 were fine for this pitch.
P3 – 5.7, ~35m
Climbs fast, similar to P5 of Calculus Crack in nature.
P4 – 5.7, ~40m
Beautiful, clean climbing. You can choose to climb the hands splitter or the hands corner. Easy until the top, where it steepens slightly.
P5 – 5.easy, ~25m
Easy climbing, again choose between a face crack or a corner crack.
P6 – 5.7, ~35m
Layback up a handcrack to an interesting set of roof moves, traversing underneath a roof. Fun.
P7 – 5.8, ~45m, 4 bolts
Finesse up a thin left-leaning crack. Slightly awkward to place gear – bolts help protect you through the thin sections. This pitch will take you to the top of Calculus & St. Vitus – you can sling a tree to belay, or continue up to the belay bolts before the gulley next to Karen’s Math that takes you to the rest of Broadway Ledge.
If you want you can walk off at this point, or rappel Bad Pants Party into the South Gulley.
P8 – 5.7
Continue up easy, low angle crack climbing through some interesting features.
P9 – 5.8
Up a finger crack, then continue more vertically through some challenging ground, avoiding Memorial Crack. I found this pitch more challenging than the first two. Finish on bolt anchors on the top of a boulder (same boulder that marks the end of Memorial Crack, but the LTNS anchors are climber’s left.