Gear
- Double ropes (for rappel) or single 70m using intermediate anchors
- 15-20 draws
- #0.75 cam
- Nuts
Approach
0.95 miles, 1,125 ft gain, ~30 mins? The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle. Beware of possible windy conditions and a shady and possibly very chilly first belay under a large boulder.
From the west side (slightly longer, about 1.9 miles, 916 ft gain), shortly after passing the 1 mile marker, look for a small trail descending down and to the left as the main trail switchbacks up and to the right. Follow the trail as it wanders up a drainage, going in and out periodically. On the right, you will see the Rockfellow formation, and on the left is Cochise Dome. We found this easy, but perhaps slightly longer route to the base of the End Pinnacle. Continue in the main drainage for a while, past Cochise Dome, past a large formation immediately to the right — hike until you are past the Rockfellow formation (it will seem like you’ve gone too far!). About 1/4 mile past the formation on the right, look for a trail leaving the drainage off to the right (cairned as of 12/06). Follow this up some low-angle slabs, weaving around boulders (again, it might feel you are hiking away from the Rockfellows). Go through a small boulder tunnel, and then turn right up a drainage which leads to the N side of the Rockfellow formation. This should all be well-cairned. Follow the trail that skirts the bottom of the formation to the base of a number of End Pinnacle routes.
P1 – 5.10a, 150′
Start on the slab under the boulder, then traverse left to a small ledge and out to the left to a sickle shape feature and up steep face climbing on alligator skin to a two-bolt belay (rap anchors). Very well bolted (15-18 bolts).
Base 
Start of P1 
Traverse left 
Climber on P1
P2 – 5.8 R, 150′
Climb the face up and right to a single bolt. You will see a two-bolt belay above and left of this (for Poetry in Motion), but this is NOT where you are heading. Continue right to the buttress and climb the line of bolts. The traverse right to the arete is run-out and the single bolt is piss-poor but the climbing is easy. Once on the arete, the route is well-bolted. Belay off two rap anchors in a kind of alcove.
Start of P2 
P2
P3 – 5.10a, 130′
Just above the belay, follow the bolted seam up and traverse to the right. A #0.75 cam is necessary here. Exposed!
Start of P3 
Looking back at first half of P3 
End of P3
P4 – 5.8-, 5 bolts
Up the steep slab past 5 bolts to a large ledge with a 2-bolt anchor on the left side.
Start of P4 
Start of P4 
P4
P5 – 5.8+, 100′
Move the belay to the right side (for Days of Future Passed) and then traverse right around the corner and up a steep slab, following bolts to the top.
Descent
There’s two options.
Steph’s SW Face descent
4 double rope rappels. Steph and Nick descended that in 12 minutes total!
- R1 – Rappel pitch 5. 100′? Maybe single rope is ok there?
- R2 – Rappel pitch 4 and continue ~50′ lower to find another anchor. ~150′ total?
- R3 – Rappel maybe ~120′?
- R4 – Rappel maybe ~130′ to ground?
Guidebook descent
Double rope rappel or single 70m rappels using intermediate anchors.
If using double ropes, 3 rappels… Rappels are all bolted as of 2008 nowl
- Rappel 1 – 150′. From the top, move north and slightly east below the summit area to a small pine tree with rap rings. Rap 150′ to a set of bolts.
- Rappel 2 – Another 2-rope rappel into a dark chimney.
- Scramble north along the chimney to a hole by a chockstone, squeeze through the hole onto a ledge.
- Rappel 3 – Rapp off slings around a wedged chockstone to the ground on the NE side of the pinnacle.
If using single 70m, 4 rappels.