Parent The Apron
YDS rating 5.8
Pitches 6

Overall

  • Very slabby. Including slab lay-backing
  • Runout

Gear

  • #0.3-2 with doubles to 0.75

Logistics

  • All bolted belays

Approach

Continue past this first crack and go up the ramp to the right. You’ll end up on a trail and be a few minutes away from the start of the route.

P1 – 5.7, 55m

Begin up a low-angle slab to a horizontal break with a tree. Make a few face moves to a left-angling crack system and follow it up before making a slightly downward traverse across a small face as the cracks end. Follow a second crack system to an anchor on a ledge.

“Assume no gear. Only one place to really put gear in 55m that will guarantee a hold. Horizontal crack. The slight down-climb is the sketchiest part of all. Prepare to meet Jesus if you slip up”

P2 – 5.6, 15m

Climb a short distance above the ledge and make a slabby unprotected traverse across the face to the left. This unprotected pitch is hardest at the beginning, then eases before reaching an anchor on a good ledge.

Can link with P3 with a 60m rope.

P3 – 5.8, 45m

Layback and smear your way up the corner, making a move over a small step partway up. End at a semi-hanging belay.

P4 – 5.8, 50m

Continue up the obvious corner. Ignore the incipient calf cramp.

P5 – 5.7, 50m

The climbing eases somewhat as the angle of the dihedral lessens. Belay at a nice ledge.

P6 – 5.8, 40m

The crack in the dihedral becomes a small seam and disappears just as the angle of the wall becomes most forgiving. Smear and stem your way up to Broadway, overcoming a tricky bulge onto the ledge. The gear on this pitch is notably small and fairly run-out. The final move is easy to protect.