Gear
- 70m rope – Makes one of the rappels easier and allows linking P4-5
- Gear from 0.3-4 with double 0.3-2
- Potentially even triple 0.5-0.75 if pushing grade
- Nuts
Logistics
- Leave backpack at base, rappel returns close to base
P1 – 5.9
“A committing move gets you off the ground. Work your way up pulling on roots and using large cracks. Larger cams are a good idea for the last section of this pitch if you’re not that comfortable with crack climbing yet.”
P2 – 5.8
“Step out left and onto the face, using multiple cracks to work your way up to a bolted anchor on the right.”
P3 – 5.7
“Step back out onto the face an work your way around a tree and up two stellar cracks that run side by side. When nearing the the end of the cracks, start looking left for the thin finger crack and small ledge just below. This is where you want to set up your belay. A second option is to set up the belay on the parallel cracks just to the right of the finger crack and save your small gear for pitch 4.”
Start of P3 
End of P3
P4 – 5.8
“Fun and easy finger crack that takes gear really good. Follow this crack up and end up on a ramp on the left and build your anchor here.”
Can link with P5 with 70m rope
Start of P4 
P5 – 5th class
“Low angle slab. Start off the ramp going up and right. Work your way to a crack to plug some gear, then head straight up to the trees. People tend to want to head right for some reason. Don’t do that.”
Descent
Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree’d ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.
Rappel is preferred, straightforward and easy
R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)
R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)
R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m
R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)
R4: Bolted anchor (25m)
“Walkoff beta (if not continuing up the buttress) – from the trees, scramble up & left via a fixed line to gain a prominent right-angling 4th class gully system. scramble up this (passing memorial ledge on your left) to its terminus. follow the well traveled path to the right till it peters out above some slab. complete an exposed traverse trending slightly down with a jug rail for your hands and a short section of thin feet (those squeamish about exposure may want rock shoes on for this). a short remaining traverse/downclimb will put you on broadway ledge immediately above the top of Diedre. continue south along the trail/gully system to reach the nice trail in the trees that will eventually deposit you on the Apron Connector trail south of the Apron parking lot.”