YDS rating 5.10b
Pitches 13

P1 – 5.8

Go right to a small bay and climb a 5.8 groove.

P2 – 5.10b

Climb the fine crack, cruxy at the top, to a ledge.

P3 – 5.10b

Step down left then steeply up face holds past bolts to ao tricky layback then easier ground.

P4 – 5.7

Climb a corner to ledges.

P5 – 5.10a

Take the steep wall above until possible to move right into an exposed hidden corner. Exit right to easier ground.

P6 – 5.7

A long easy pitch leads to ledges, then a scramble to the base of the steep rock.

P7 – 5.10a

Tricky. Take the ramp until possible to exit right via a layback bulge to another rampy corner. Climb to its top until a pull right gains an easier groove. Scramble onward to a cracked corner and belay beside a 9″ offwidth.

P8 – 5.9

Climb the right-leaning corner to a groove and then ledges.

P8 to P9

From here, follow a scrambly trail for 50m to the Lower Acrophobe Tower.

P9 – 5.7

There are two ways to get past the tower.

  • Climb its ziggy-zaggy face cracks to an airy traverse along a crest. On the gully side, a short steep rappel or downclimb is possible (fixed lines), then rough scrambling to the start of pitch 10.
  • Or, continue to the top and a short rappel.

P10 – 5.8

A broken pitch right of the crest leads to the upper wall.

P11 – 5.8

Climb a short fist-hand crack then more cracks to the Whaleback Arete. Belay at its top by an old cedar.

P12 – 5.10a

Move right and take a steep, sustained crackline to a spacious ledge.

P13 – 5.8

Slither right under an overhang to a big chimney. Climb it to the rim and a fine ledge to relax on.