Getting there
- Drive to Taylor Campground (high clearance / 4WD recommended). Camping requires reservation and is $30.
- 20-30 min hike in. 500 ft gain, 0.9 miles.
P1: 5.8
From the north side of the tower, climb down a few feet (but not more) and then up onto an exposed ledge which leads around the corner to the west. Follow this ledge to the belay bolts.
We did the traverse pitch, and it was easy. My partner was sort of belaying me downwards for the first 10ft, and a fall here would’ve really hurt the poor guy. But it was easy enough that it wasn’t concerning.
Start 
Start of P1 traverse 
Airy start of P1 traverse 
Looking back at the traverse 
Following P1 traverse
P2: 5.10
Head up shallow left facing corner on .75, then transition to right facing corner on #1s. Pull the bulge/roof (.5-2, crux) and continue until you get the first option to traverse left on a pretty good ledge. Build an anchor around the large boulder where the next pitch starts. This option will avoid down climbing the next pitch, and will put you right where you need to be. Gear anchor BD #2 & 3.
Starting P2 
P2 crux roof move
P3: 5.10-, ~60′
This pitch is very short. Climb hollow flakes with some places for good gear. Bolted anchor.
Starting P3 
Start of P3 (they chose the less popular higher P2 and then downclimb) 
Following P3 at the start 
Following P3
P4: 5.10
Follow a straight in crack to a pod, then up a right facing dihedral (5.10 hands and then layback on #3 fist, like a #3 size version of Incredible Hand Crack, one spot for a #4) to a 2 bolt belay. This pitch looks tough from below, but a convenient foothold off to the right at one roof makes it easier than one might think. Consider an extra #3 for this pitch (3-4 #3’s useful).
Starting P4 
Topping out on P4
P5: 5.11 or aid
Continue up a weird 5.9 crack to the base of the ear (large cam may be useful), optional hanging belay here. Once you leave the 5.9 crack, you only need 8 draws, (6 for the bolts and 2 for the anchor) and a purple Camalot to sew up the Ear. If aiding, short people may not be able to reach the Camalot placement from standing on the last bolt, so they may have to climb 3 ft before getting more pro in. Medium to large nuts essential for P5. 2-bolt anchor on a wonderful ledge.
Start of P5 
Base of ear 
Halfway up ear 
Halfway up ear 
Looking down from belay 
Aiding up the end
P6: 5.10
Chimney behind a large flake and head straight up (5.8) to a 2 bolt belay. Alternatively, you can follow 1 or 2 bolts above the belay (5.10 face).
P7:
This is the same as the last pitch on the Dunn Route. Face climb past 2 bolts to the top. You can easily combine P6 & P7.
Rappel
Rappel North Face (Pale Fire)
From the summit you can make a short rap back down to the shoulder, then rap the North Face (Pale Fire) in 4 raps easily with a 70m rope (doesn’t work with 60m, at least one rap is over 100′). This deposits you back at the start of the P1 5.8 traverse where you started the climb!
Rappel Primronse
Requires double 60m ropes, but you can rappel the route itself with that.