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Super awesome 10 pitch sport climb, super well bolted! Basically the Arizona equivalent of Washington’s Prime Rib of Goat.

THIS ROUTE IS CLOSED JAN 1 TO APRIL 30 EVERY YEAR. Please respect the closure. This will help enable Bighorn Sheep to thrive and will help to maintain positive access relationships with local land management.

Gear

If linking pitches 1-2, bring 19 draws with over half alpine (and even then you have to skip a few bolts).

16 draws if pitching it out and clipping every single bolt.

60m rope.

Approach

1:15 hour approach: 1.8 miles, 1,315 ft gain. Most on trail till last ~0.5 miles of off trail but quite well travelled.

Potential itinerary

• 7:30 – Start hiking
• 8:45 – At base
• 9:00 – Climbing
• 2:00 – Summit
• 4:00 – Car

Sunrise is 7:23 and sunset is 5:26 pm.

P1) 5.8, 30m, ~11 bolts ⭐

Slabby granite with some thoughtful moves that sometimes wander left and right. The actual start is down lower in the bushes, many people miss and skip it (although you’re not missing much). If you start on the higher ledge, it’s only 25 meters and ~9 bolts and you could probably link P1-2 with only a 60m that way. Otherwise you need a 70m to link, and definitely want 8 alpine draws.

Climb slabby ledges to a bulge, navigate around it, and then climb more slabby ledges. Finish out right on a steep bowl of rock with good holds on a pretty good ledge. P1 ends on “Prickly Pear Ledge”.

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P2) 5.7, 35m, 11 bolts ⭐⭐

Easier slab pitch. Climb straight up the ramp from the belay, clip a traverse bolt for the follower, and then cross right to the main wall and a nicely featured slab.

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P3) 5.9, 40m, 14 bolts ⭐⭐⭐

Possibly the psychological lead crux, and the most sustained pitch – awkward starting move with awkward bolting and then more sustained slab. Start at the left of the belay ledge and climb left around the arete (awkward and tough to clip the bolts but easier), or straight up for extra spice. An airy but easy move left at the 4th bolt and a horizontal crack brings you back to slab terrain. After several bolts of slab (about 7 feet between bolts, and you’re high enough it can start to feel spooky), cross right at the tree (easier to cross low), and follow cracks to the belay. If retreating after pitch 3, rappel to climber’s right of the tree (the bolts are climber’s left).

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P4) 5.7, 20m, ⭐⭐⭐

An airy traverse left from the belay (photo-op) leads to big holds on a vertical face. Looks really scary, but it’s actually quite an easy traverse. Alexis usually hates any traverses but thought it was pretty fine.

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P5) 5.8, 20m, ⭐⭐

A second (shorter but tougher) traverse pitch leads to the half-way ledge. It finishes with a hand-over-hand traverse with basically no feet. Combine with P4 for efficiency (45m if linked), or split it in two to keep an eye on your climber (can be tough to hear each other if linking).

P6) 5.9, 30m, ⭐⭐⭐⭐

A difficult start (crux) right above the belay leads to easy 5.7 climbing on a vertical face with good holds, passing one huge ledge to arrive at an exposed belay on the smallest ledge on route. It is possible to link with P7 to skip the semi-hanging belay, if desired.

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P7) 5.8, 30m, ⭐⭐

A crux off the belay and run out after the first bolt leads to the 200′ adventurous section of mountaineering-esque climbing. It would be easy to get lost here, but if in doubt the next bolt is likely straight up. Try not to fall between the first and second bolts, as you will likely impact your belayer.

P8) 5.7, 30m, ⭐⭐

More mountaineering-esque climbing leads to a big ledge at the base of the crux overhang of the next pitch. Links with P7, slings may help reduce rope drag.

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P9) 5.9, 40m, ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Two bolts of overhanging bucket climbing leads to a difficult mantle (crux). Surmount the crux, and climb 5.7 face and cracks to Black Widow Ledge under the giant roof.

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P10) 5.7, 20m, 6-7 bolts ⭐⭐⭐

Walk far to the left to clip the first bolt, then climb up to a corner. Find a way to get established in the corner, and finish on the face to the right. It is ***highly recommended*** to step right over the roof after clipping the last bolt, look down at where you came from, and savor the exposure before pulling onto the summit.

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