YDS rating 5.10
Pitches 3

Gear

  • Radios?
  • Cams: 3-5 of #2, 2-3 of #3…
    • #0.2: 1-2x
    • #0.3-0.75: 1-2x (prolly doubles?)
    • #1: 1-2x (prolly doubles?)
    • #2: 3-5x
    • #3: 2-3x
    • #4: 1x
  • Nuts: Yes
  • Backpack: Pack and shoes for walk off
  • Crack gloves

P1 – 5.7, 50′

Climb a left facing corner to a big ledge. Can link with next pitch if you have enough #2’s and #3’s and are careful about the drag.

P2 – 5.10, 120′

From the left side of the ledge climb the excellent finger crack (aliens work well to protect) over a roof (crux), then continue with 50′ of 5.9 hand crack to a bolted belay (this is why you brought all those #2 Camalots). Be sure to save some strength for the hand crack!

P3 – 5.8, 160′

A long pitch continues up a steep wall via (mostly thin) cracks and face and ending at another 2 bolt belay. This pitch looks harder than 5.8 from below, and is excellent.

P4 – 5.10-, 105′

Follow a right facing corner past a pointy detached flake (Caution! Do not touch!) to another nice ledge (with a recently installed 2-bolt anchor)

P5-6 – 5th class, 225′

Can break it up into 2 pitches. There’s no obvious route, you’ll hopefully end up on a flat section.

Descent

Look for the “saddle” descent, forward and left. There’s some easy downclimbing, but you’re about 500 feet from an obvious path with cairns. Then, just follow the Epinephrine descent back to the car.

From the summit head east, back towards the parking lot. Scramble down the rightmost of three gullies, then countour back down to the base of the cliff.