- Finding bolts: Follow path of least resistance.
- Communications: Sounds like can be difficult especially when linking? But there’s cell reception once reaching the 2nd pitch.
- Time: ~6 hrs with short breaks
- 20 min approach
- ~3 hrs climbing
- ~1 hr rappelling
- 30 min back to car
- 70m rope or two 60’s (needed for rappelling, or bring 10m of pull cord?)
- 12 quickdraws (6 sport, 4 single alpine, 2 double alpine)
- #2 cam
20 mins. 0.5 miles, 250 ft gain. Park at the pullout below the Holy Monastery of Saint Nicholas Anapafsas, and then find the trail just 50 yards east, heading south off of the road. Follow the trail/roads around to the northeast end of the rock.
With a 60m rope, can be linked into 4 total pitches. Long runners are useful and rope drag was minimal. 12 quickdraws is sufficient to link.
P1 – 5.7, 35m, 3 bolts
First bolt is quite a few meters up (see the pictures: one has a blue arrow pointing at it), and approximately 1 or 2 meters to the left of the biggest rock you see on the conglomerate face. The 2nd “bolt” (more like door knocker rings) on the first pitch is straight out left about 10 feet then up about 5 feet.
Can be linked with P2 (with 60m)
P2 – 5.7, 35m, 4 bolts
After the first two bolts, possibly traverse right? Or possibly just continue up path of least resistance? Might be a bit mossy/chossy. Definitely traverses right to the anchor at the end. “Climb straight up (V) to ”ledge”, traverse right to the second belay”.
P3 – 5.9, 20m, 3 bolts
Some easy slab then a prominent off width/chimney. Uses a #2 cam. Some say this is the crux of the route (when entering the chimeny). Hanging anchor.
Can be linked with P4-5 (with 60m)
P4 – 15m, 1 bolt
Lefthand offwidth (V), which becomes easier dihedral as you go higher. Hanging anchor.
P5 – 15m, 2 bolts
Nice face climbing to the left, with big holds (V). Don’t try to link with P6, causes communication problems.
P6 – 15m, 2 bolts
Climb the slab (V-) with the small crack.
Can be linked with P7 (with 60m)
P7 – 40m, 3 bolts
Easiest slab pitch, you can basically run up it.
P8 – 35m, 3 bolts
Climb up (III+) to the belay ring of Heiliger Geist route, traverse right on the ledge to groove with 1 more bolt. Becarefull of the rope friction. Belay on the big ledge. Has a wonderful resting spot for a lunch break above the anchor.
Can be linked with P9 (with 60m)
P9 – 5.9, 40m, 3 bolts
Traverse left (1 ring by nearby route), to dihedral/crack (V+ with 1 bolt), then slab (V-, one more bolt) to the end of the route. Belay on two rings. Expect communication problems, so be prepared.
4-5 rappels total. From the top, walk south along the top until you get to the southern end.
Rappel 1 (10m): Look for a single eyebolt to the left (East) that is in an obvious water runoff. Single rope rappel (approx 10 meters long).
Rappel 2-5: Rappel down the water chute, about 400′ total, stop at each anchor.
You can climb an 5.11b at the last rappel – “Weg des Wassers” is an 11b you can toprope.
There is a whole in the wall with a gray door (go through it I think). 10 minute walk to the village on a trail that’s to the right of the church.