Resources
Time estimates
- 0:45 – Trail for 1.4 miles, 730 ft gain
- 2:45 – Bushwacking for 1.4 miles
- 5:45 – Scree and glacier to Ribbon Point, 1.7 mi, 2,700 ft
- 6:45 – Top of Ribbon Point
- 8:45 – Base of climb
- 9:15 – Climbing
- 12:15 – Top of climb
- 13:45 – Summit
Approach
Great approach notes here. Park at Elbow Lake Trailhead. Follow the Elbow Lake trail for 1.4 miles, 730 ft gain to the switchback at ~2,700 feet, where the trail starts to turn eastwards just before Hidebrand Creek.
Depart the trail and cross the creek almost immediately (at ~2,650 ft), and continue up the valley through brush for about 1.4 miles of mostly flat but tough bushwacking.
After leaving the trail the bushwhack is still full-on with continuous brush, slippery log crossings over a raging Green Creek and a final shwack through dense thickets of fir trees. If you just keep motoring you’ll only have an hour or two of suffering. If you pussyfoot around you’ll never make it.
https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/91834-tr-twin-sisters-range-green-creek-circuit-6222013/
Then travel 1.7 miles, 2,700 ft gain on rock and then glacier to Ribbon Point.
Climb
Hayden has a really beautiful spur of rock dropping of the east ridge into the basin between Hayden and Skookum. I climbed it twice with both Matt and Dave it was so good. Four pitches of progressively harder rock leads to the tiny summit of a prominent pinnacle on the east ridge. A short rappel leads to a spectacular, exposed 4th class scramble through a series of towers to a longer rappel (75′) that intersects the normal east ridge route. From here exposed 3rd class scrambling with route finding issues on more great rock leads to the summit. On the crux pitch either climb the wide crack on the right (5.7) until you can move left across the face (5.9) into a great layback corner. Or start with the short chimney on the left and then climb back up and right across the face (5.7r – micronuts for gear) to the same 5.9 moves into the corner. Awesome.
https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/99788-tr-twin-sisters-range-hayden-amp-peak-6136-8102016/
To get off Hayden retrace your steps to the last rappel the work down ledges to the east then west. If it’s not easy scrambling you’re doing it wrong.
Pitch 1 – 5.0, ~160′
Pitch 2 – 5.4, 150′
Pitch 3 – 5.7, 120′
Pitch 4 – 5.9, 100′
Scramble to summit
From there, you scramble 3rd to 4th class ridgeline to the actual summit
Plans
Hayden Peak
Weather Sunrise: 6:15 AM Sunset: 8:08 PM Itinerary 5:00 AM – Start hiking (1.4 miles, 730 ft gain) 5:45 AM – Depart trail, bushwack (1.4 miles, trail apparently pretty trodden) 6:45 AM – Hike up scree and glacier to Ribbon Point (1.7 mi, 2,700 ft) 9:45 AM – Climb Ribbon Point (3 pitches of 5.0)…