Rebolted in 2022, this is now a decently well bolted route! Any mentions of “30 ft runouts” are outdated.
Gear
- 60m rope
- 15 draws
Overview
- 20 min approach
- 2:00 hrs climbing? (20 mins/pitch?)
- 1:00 hr rappelling? (6 rappels)
- 4 hours car-to-car?
| 5.6 | 5.7 | 5.8 | 5.9 |
| 🪢 | 🪢 | 🪢 | 🪢🪢 |
Approach
About 20 mins. Park next to the 45mph sign, the trail starts immediately behind the sign. Follow the trail up to the treeline, then the rock cairns throughout the scree/talus. As you get higher up, follow the right trending path into scree at a vague fork. The left, better marked trail continues to Sisyphus and Flyboys. The route starts at the toe of Buffalo Point Buttress near a prominent fir tree on a huge ledge at the bottom of the route. This route was established for climbers with a better lead head.
P1 – 5.8+, 45m?
Pass an intermediate rap anchor.
P2 – 5.6, 45m?
Pass an intermediate rap anchor.
P3 – 5.7, 30m?
Halfway up P3, walk to the right of a small tree.
First half of P3 
End of P3 (above the tree)
P4 – 5.9, <30m
Crux is the small roofs halfway up, some say this is the hardest move of the route.
P5 – 5.9+, 50m
The most sustained pitch, fun. Pass an intermediate rap anchor. Also near the top, ignore the alternative belay on the far left. Should be a good spot for lunch before rappelling back downl.
Good holds above the crux on P5
Rappel
6 rappels with a single 60m. Stop at the stations with chains (usually different rappel anchors than belay).