See Cascades Rock book by Blake Herrington
Brutal approach… from the west, it’s ~10 miles, 7,800 ft gain, the same approach as to Spire Point, which is the Ptarmigan Traverse trail, which is where we were bit by wasps at least 3 separate times on the bushwacky trail. So probably 2 days of approach, 1 day climb, and 1 day going back.
From the east: ~3 day trip? With like a 2 day approach? Sounds long, at least that’s the eastside Chelan approach option…
“The angle steepened with the third pitch and Nate lead through some loose rock to an airy belay below a cruxy roof and leaning crack.”
“The next three pitches delivered the goods: solid, steep climbing on great granite.”
“Nate led through the crux chimney on the fifth pitch, which was consistently steep with great stemming. He exited the chimney onto a ridge crest.”
“I took over the lead and was greeted with a nice flourish to the route. The sweet, jagged handcrack led to an arete and another nice hand crack on the other side.”
“A short pitch led to the end of the technical climbing and we scrambled to the summit.”