Excalibur – Andrew's Hikes

Overall

Really well liked aside from the approach (some bushwacking, some steep slab, some trickiness). Otherwise, good mixture of slab climbing, featured climbing, corners, pretty good belay stances, quite well protected.

Time estimates

C2C: 10 hours
- Approach: ~2 hrs, some even took 3 hours
- Climbing: 5 hours (30 min/pitch)
- Rappel: 1 hour (6 double 60m rope rappels, 10 min/rappel)

Gear

Double 60m ropes (needed for rappel)
Singles #0.3-2
Nuts
15 draws (8 sport, 6 single alpine, 1 double alpine)
NO radios? Seems like you should be able to see each other the whole time

Approach

3.3 miles, 2,200 ft gain, maybe 2 hours? After going 2 miles on Squire Creek Trail, descend off to the right through brush to find the log crossing.

Cross and travel upstream for 30m, finding the first dry tributary bed and following this for 400m (10min hiking maybe) till you see a “well established” climber’s trail on your right. This trail is BEAUTIFUL and ascends up the forested slopes towards the wall. Gawk at the old trees and soft undergrowth. You’ll eventually reach an unforgettable bivy spot that you wish you were camping at. From here on out you’ll be going through brushy trails and upwards and left towards Illusion Wall.

Go up the first slabs you encounter, finding some rap bolts then a hand rope up through a step (visible here above wet streaks). You’ll find cut and bent branches, trodden soil, a few more hand lines, and bark-less trees enticing you towards the correct direction – almost fun navigation – getting eventually to an obvious sandy bivy ledge and the base of the route (again, very left from the first initial slabs – don’t go too high up). From the good bivy this took an hour, so factor that in. We also found some seeps to drink/refill from in this section. You’ll see bolts! Climb on!

P1: 5.8, 60m

The approach pitch that will get you to the real climbing, ends at the 4th Class ledges. Trends up and left from the start.

P2: 4th class, 20m

Traverse across the ledges until you reach the first set of bolted anchors. Short.

P3: 5.10+, 45m

Starts off on some stiff face climbing leading to a nice 5.9 corner crack.

P4: 5.10+, 35m

Follow the bolts up for more face climbing. The only pitch that is all bolted. ⚠️ As of 2024, there’s a big (6′ wide) plate that’s starting to crack with one bolt on it that you probably should avoid clipping.

To link with P5 you need more than a 60m rope.

Climber following P4, belayer at top of P4 visible above

P5: 5.9+, 35m

Start out going left and up to find a nice finger crack that lead you to the belay station just right of the signature flake.

P6: 5.9, 25m

Signature pitch. Short and sweet. Takes you out left, underclinging the Excalibur flake. Go up and around to the bolted anchors (no chains).

P7: 5.10-, 35m

More face climbing and small cracks lead you to the next anchors.

P8: 5.10+, 15m

Has some small finger cracks, with a short traverse right.

P9: 5.9, 45m

Has an awesome corner that looks harder than it is. Then, get on top of the corner, and continue on a few more flake moves to the top. Most rappel from the top of this pitch.

P10: Easy 5th Class.

Dirty. Just another pitch that gets you to the top of the wall.

P10 isn’t really obvious but I am fairly sure you can make whatever work, we went somewhat up and left from the anchor before trending up and right to the anchor. Doesn’t add much to the climbing but (if you are willing to yo-yo a little away from the anchor) gives a nice spot to sit down and relax before the rappels.
Daniel Heins

Descent

Rappel the route with two 60m ropes. Every single rappel is a double rope rappel. You’ll be skipping a few belays (some belays don’t have rap chains/rings, only bolts)… From top of P9…

R1: Rap P9 (45m)
R2: Rap P8-7 (50m) (Top of P7 is only a bolt anchor)
R3: Rap P6-5 (~45-60m) (Top of P5 is only a bolt anchor)
R4: Rap P4 (35m)
R5: Rap P3-2 (60m) (Top of P2 is only a bolt anchor)
R6: Rap P1 (60m)

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