YDS rating 5.10c
Pitches 4

Approach

Overview

P1 – 5.9. 40m.

Continue trending up and left to a bolted belay on top of Bullethead Ledge. People say this pitch has the worst gear, feels “alpiney”, “hollow”, “marginal gear”. Potentially you can scramble up to Slot Machine ledge and start directly on P2 or can climb Rainy Day Dream Away for P1… several people confirm they did Rainy Day as P1.

P2 – 10b/c. 35m.

Move right from the belay anchors along the ledge and head up the thin crack. a tricky roof encounter leads to an easier but technical finger crack. Once at the top of the crack, down climb a few feet to the left and belay off of a tree below the obvious “Stem Box” pitch.

P3 Stembox – 10a/b? 40m.

The “stembox” variation on the left is the most popular. Stem and jam up the “Stem Box” until it’s possible to exit onto the right crack. Top out onto a dirt ledge with a bolted belay.

P3 Finger Crack Option

Bulletheads East Pitch 3 Climbers lined up at the finger crack variation

P4 – 10b. 30m.

Best pitch on the route. Long, sustained fingers and hands in a groove. (climbs the right finger crack, not the chimney on the left). Belay on the route’s rap rings.

Descent

Rappel the route? Idk if 70 needed?

When rapping P3 you need to do a short intermediate rappel (chains down and right) even with a 70m.

One person said with a 70m rope you can rappel P1 as just one and skip the 8m rap station near the bottom if you’re fine with 10-15 feet of easy down climbing.