Overview
Very well bolted. The main con seems to be that it’s still a little dirty (mainly the upper pitches, the lower pitches are quite clean). People have had some holds blow on P6 and P8 (be aware of climbers above), and some lichen up there. Starts just right (and maybe down?) of Methow Inspiration Route.
| 5.6 | 5.7 | 5.8 | 5.9 | 5.10 |
| 🪢 | 🪢🪢🪢 | 🪢🪢 | 🪢 | 🪢🪢 |
Gear
- 60m rope
- 16 draws (10 sport, 6 single alpine)
Approach
0.35 miles, 750 ft gain, ~20 mins? Follow the trail for the Methow Inspiration Route until nearly the top of the trail. Veer right to a small fixed line, then follow the trail to the start of P1. The climb starts about 20′ to the right of Methow Inspiration Route (you can see the chains at the top of P2).
P1: 5.6, 100′, 6 bolts
Scramble to a ledge belay.
Can link with P2 as 5.7, 200′, 16 bolts, links well.
P2: 5.7, 100′, 9 bolts
Climb up overlapping sections trending right with several bulges to belay
P3: 5.9, 80′, 10 bolts
Step left from belay and climb fun face that first trends left and then right to belay over the lip
P4: 5.8, 90′, 5 bolts
Continue up slabby terrain to belay
P5: 5.7, 125′, 10 bolts
Alpine feeling pitch with a tricky face start to ledge trending right along wall to belay
P6: 5.7, 70′, 7 bolts
Make blocky moves finishing below short face
P7: 5.8, 50′, 4 bolts
Bouldery start to easy terrain trends right to base of headwall
P8.1: 5.10a, 70′, 7 bolts
Directly tackle the yellow crystal block that lean left unlocking the positive holds and tricky movement to a corner then climb to an intermediate anchor. Might still be mossy as of early 2024. Some feel this is 10+.
Can link with P8.2 as 140′ and 13 bolts, but communicating and belaying the second might be more difficult.
P8.2: 5.10a, 70′, 5 bolts
Head up to the final anchor. People feel this half is easier, maybe even 5.9.
Descent
8 rappels with a single 60m rope.
- R1: Rappel P8.2 (20m)
- R2: Rappel P8.1 and P7 and find chains slightly below and climbers left of the top of P6? (30m?)
- R3: Rappel straight down and climbers left of the bolt line, left of a few trees, over a lip to the rap anchor
- R4: Rappel straight down, rejoining the bolt line at the top of P4
- R5: Rappel P4 (27m)
- R6: Rappel P3 (24m)
- R7: Rappel P2 (30m)
- R8: Rappel P1 (30m)