Josh’s first multipitch climb! And Kyle’s second multipitch climb!
- Walkie talkies are definitely useful
- 6 alpine draws and two additional double draws can be nice!
Pitch 1 – 5.4, 40-45m, 3 bolts
The first pitch is super easy, close to a scramble. Sparsely bolted but easy. To link this with P2 you’d have to simul-climb a little bit, even with a 70m rope, since total length of the two is probably 80m or a bit more.
Pitch 2 – 5.8, 40m, 11 bolts
This pitch starts to the right of the bolted anchor and is pretty easy for the first half and passes an intermediate bolt anchor. Then, it steepens but becomes really well bolted!
P2 to P3 scramble
Then it’s a short easy walk to the next pitch.
Pitch 3 – 5.7, 30m, 5 bolts
A nice shorter pitch, one or two slightly awkward moves over an edge. Alexis led this one.
Pitch 4 – 5.9-, 50m, 14 bolts
A LONG pitch! Passes an intermediate anchor early on. Use your alpine draws wisely, it’s quite zig zaggy! Having one double alpine at the last bolt was nice too. Anchor ends on 45 degree slabby rock just before the slight downclimb on the next pitch.
Pitch 5 – 5.7, 35m, 6 bolts
This pitch starts with an awkward downramp into the notch, and then climbs up. Nice to have one or two double alpine draws here!
P5 to P6 scramble
Another short little walk to the base of P6. Great views from here!
Pitch 6/7 – 5.8 then 5.9-, 25m then 30m, 9 bolts each
We linked these two pitches, ending up being about 55 meters linked with about 18 bolts if you use them all (you could definitely get away with 15 draws). Two double alpine draws were nice for this! They link well together! Quite frequently bolted.
P7 to P8 scramble
This is a lengthier walk, probably more like 200 meters. Scramble trending directly up to the base of the cliff and then move a little left along the cliff to find the next pitch.
Pitch 8 – 5.8, 40m, 13 bolts
Slabbier and steeper sustained climbing. Alexis led this pitch, really well bolted! It’s tempting to link with the short next pitch, not sure how the drag would be though since the next pitch traverses sharp right, but it’s easy.
Pitch 9 – 5.4, 9 bolts, 20m
Goes briefly up and then cuts sharp right, on a slightly exposed but otherwise very easy and frequently bolted traverse. Two double alpines can be nice to have.
Pitch 10 – Skipped by scrambling
This pitch is low 5th class and looked like a bit pointless, we opted to just scramble up to the right of it.
Pitch 11 – 5.9, 30m, 9-10 bolts?
The toughest pitch! It definitely felt harder than the others, I had to be a bit more thoughtful. The pitch starts going up the chimney-ish rock, slightly overhanging, and then it starts to cut left onto the left face. Can be tricky finding the right holds and moves, but then once you do it’s not too bad.
Walk to top
From the last anchor, we walked a bit further up in climbing shoes and then took a break and enjoyed the views!
Walk to the road
Then it was a 25 minute walk back to the road on a decently travelled trail.