Start date 20201016
End date 20201027
Posted on

Itinerary

  • Friday, Oct 16th
    • 6:00 PM – Start driving to Indian Creek (18 hrs)
  • Saturday, Oct 17
    • 12:00 PM – Arrive, get campsite
    • Climb a bit
  • Sunday, Oct 18 – Sunday, Oct 25
    • 8 full days of climbing
  • Monday, Oct 26
    • Climb in morning
    • Check into AirBnB at 3:00 PM
  • Tuesday, Oct 27 – Friday, Oct 30
    • Working during day
    • Hikes in evenings
  • Saturday, Oct 31
    • Hike or climb
  • Sunday, Nov 1
    • 7:00 AM – Drive home (check out at 11am, 16:30 hr drive)
    • 11:30 PM – Home

Campgrounds

map: link

There’s no water at any of the campsites. Visitor center has water though.

Newspaper Rock, which is often busy, but is nice and shady, and has pittoilets.

Creek Pasture and Superbowl feature paid campsites with maintained pit-toilets, flat camping areas that are creekside, and some of the best views and fire-pits. Plus, camping is only $15 per night. Sites are located roadside and right on the actual Indian Creek. Plus the campgrounds offer no-nonsense, easy-to-access sites allowing you to spend your time in style, whether you’re in a van, tent or simply bivying under the stars.  

For free, designated campsites, you can find your home at Bridger Jack or Cottonwood campgrounds. You’ll need a ride with a high clearance, sometimes 4X4 depending on road conditions.. Word of warning, limited spots are available, and it is illegal to camp outside of the site boundaries. Get there early or have friends who can!

Indian Creek

Overall gear

  • #0.2 – 1
  • #0.3 – 3
  • #0.4 – 3
  • #0.5 – 4-7
  • #0.75 – 4-6
  • #1 – 4-6
  • #2 – 6-8
  • #3 – 6-8
  • #4 – 4-5
  • #5 – 2-3

My favorite beginner-friendly climbs

My favorite areas to learn cracks have short routes with a variety of sizes in the hand range.  Yes, you will be measuring the crack size with your body parts. Areas such as Selfish Wall are around 40-80 feet tall, with many hand sizes of cracks— my favorite is Hand Solo, (5.9)—including modern hardware that will be used often. Nuclear Wall (aka Sinbad Wall) is another great beginner area with plenty of challenging routes, and is often overlooked. This area, just on the other side of the perma-crowded Battle of the Bulge, contains short routes with plenty of hand sizes.  You’ll also find top ropes on harder routes after ascending the easier terrain. Take it from me, after a bit of exercising the thumb meat, and getting into a rhythm, you’ll be able to blast off to those classics you so desperately desire!

Selfish Wall

30 minute approach. Good for a full day trip.

  • #0.3’s – 3
  • #0.4’s – 3
  • #0.5’s – 3
  • #0.75’s – Up to 6
  • #1’s – 4
  • #2’s – Up to 5
  • #3’s – 4-5
  • #4’s – 4
  • #5’s – 2

around 40-80 feet tall, with many hand sizes of cracks— my favorite is Hand Solo, (5.9)—including modern hardware that will be used often.

  • 5.8, 50′, 1.8 from 20 votes – Bromance, no one talks about number of gear
  • 5.9, 30′, 2.6 from 126 – Hand Solo, 3-5 #2’s, seems like I could get by with just 3
  • 5.9, 60′, 2.3 from 41 – (Unknown), 4 #4’s
  • 5.9+, 60′, 3.0 from 4 – Cousin Luv’n
  • 5.10-, 60′, 2.6 from 71 – The Ooze, up to 6 #0.75’s, 4 #1’s
  • 5.10-, 60′, 2.1 from 46 – Tag Team (easy for grade), “several 0.4’s”
  • 5.10-, 55′, 2.5 from 69 – Breakfast Social, only 3’s of gear at most
  • 5.10-, 90′, 2.7 from 38 – I&I, possibly 3 of #4 or 4 of #3
  • 5.10-, 50′, 2.5 from 4 – The Guest House, single rack
  • 5.10, 60′, 2.3 from 4 – MMM, heavy on 1-2
  • 5.10, 60′, 2.5 from 33 – Turd Blossom, 4-5 #3’s, 3 #4’s
  • 5.10, 60′, 2.1 from 12 – Selfishness, heavy on #4’s and 2 #5’s
  • 5.10, 105′, 3.3 from 8 – Fuck you and your Selfie Stick, 3-5 #1-2’s
  • 5.10, 60′, 2.5 from 17 – A Little More Masochism, requires #6’s and bigger big bros
  • 5.10, 85′, 2.2 from 19 – The Duo, only triples of common gear
  • 5.10, 60′, 2.7 from 33 – Unnamed, only triples of common gear
  • 5.10+, 55′, 2.8 from 5 – Dilated Cervix, 4 #0.75’s
  • 5.10+, 50′, 2.9 from 20 – Turdus Interuptus, only triples of common

Sinbad Wall (Nuclear Wall)

Approach is 0.5 miles, 291 ft gain

  • #0.3 – 2
  • #0.4 – 2
  • #0.5 – 2
  • #0.75 – 4-5
  • #1 – 4-5
  • #2 – 4
  • #3 – 3
  • #4 – 2
  • #5 – 1

A small crag with a short approach in the heart of the indian creek madness. Not as good as it looks from the road, but there are a few good routes. Most of them are short but its quiet and there are some good moderate routes.

  • 5.9, 45′, 2.8 from 56 – Hot Sex, 1 #0.4-0.5, 3-4 #0.75’s – #2’s, 1 #4, 1 #5
  • 5.9+, 45′, 2.4 from 14 – Meltdown, #0.75-3 with mostly 3’s
  • 5.10-, 70′, 2.8 from 6 – Lady Bird, Doubles #0.3-2
  • 5.10-, 40′, 2.4 from 33 – Spittness, Doubles #2-#4, mostly #4, 1 #5
  • 5.10, 50′, 2.8 from 4 – Stubby, #0.4-2, mostly #2’s and #1’s
  • 5.10, 70′, 2.7 from 13 – Act or React, #1-#3, with 2-3 #1’s, 4 #2’s, 2-3 #3’s (rap after leading so cams don’t get pushed in by lowering)
  • 5.10, 45′, 2.6 from 16 – Fission Quest, #0.75-2
  • 5.10, 100′, 3.3 from 16 – Tiffany’s Mall Tour, #0.4-4 with doubles #0.5-2, 3 #3’s
  • 5.10, 70′, 2.7 from 15 – Road Block, #0.1-0.75, #0.1 needed to protect first 30′
  • 5.10, 110′, 3.7 from 7 – The Big “O”, Need 2 #6’s, plus multiple big bros
  • 5.10, 65′, 1.9 from 12 – On the Rocks, 2 #0.5’s, 3 #0.75’s, 3 #1’s, 1 #2
  • 5.10, 70′, 3.3 from 28 – Manifesto, #0.75-5, with 4-5 #0.75’s, 4-5 #1’s, 3 #2’s, 2 #3’s, 1 #4, 1 #5
  • 5.10, 50′, 3.2 from 9 – Walk the Plank, #0.75-3, (note route is on way right side of wall and difficult to approach from other main climbs, this is only climb in that area)

Way Rambo

0.5 mile, 394 ft gain approach

  • #0.2 – 1
  • #0.3 – 2
  • #0.4 – 2
  • #0.5 – 3-4
  • #0.75 – 2-3
  • #1 – 3
  • #2 – 4-5
  • #3 – 3-5
  • #4 – 2-3
  • #5 – 2-3

Way Rambo is a great little cliff with about a dozen climbs and something for everyone. It seems to get decent shade until around noon, some climbs are in the sun sooner, some later.

  • 5.8, 60′, 2.7 from 67 – Closed Course, #0.2-2, doubles in #0.3-0.75
  • 5.9, 40′, 2.6 from 286 – Way Putter, doubles #3-5, maybe triples #4
  • 5.9, 70′, 2.5 from 339 – Rochambeau, 1 #0.4, 2 #0.5’s, 2 #0.75’s, 1 #1, 4 #2’s, 3 #3’s, 1 #4
  • ⭐ 5.10-, 70′, 3.6 from 735 – Blue Sun, 2-3 #1, 4-5 #2’s, 3-4 #3’s
  • 5.10, 60′, 2.1 from 123 – Cockometer, #0.5-2 with triples #1-2, singles #3-4
  • 5.10, 95′, 2.7 from 64 – Desire, #2-5 with triples #5
  • 5.10, 65′, 2.5 from 61 – Renegades of Funk, #0.3-3 with doubles #0.75-2
  • 5.10, 80′, 3.0 from 170 – The Monk, doubles #0.75-4 with 3-5 #3
  • 5.10, 80′, 3.0 from 23 – First Blood, requires #6’s and #7’s
  • 5.10, 50′, 3.0 from 163 – Chest Full of Kind, 4 #2’s, 2 #3’s, 2 #1’s
  • 5.10+, 100′, 2.5 from 76 – Unnamed, 2 #2’s, 4 #3’s, 2 #4’s, 1 #5, need #6 for end
  • 5.10+, 100′, 2.6 from 20 – Expendables 2, doubles #0.3-1, 3-4 #0.5’s, 2-3 #0.75’s, singles #2-3, #0.2

Cliffs of Insanity

45 minute approach.

  • #0.3 – 2
  • #0.4 – 2
  • #0.5 – 4-5
  • #0.75 – 4-5
  • #1 – 4
  • #2 – 3
  • #3 – 4
  • #4 – 4-5
  • #5 – 1

A remote wall that is seldom visited for its lack of easier quality lines. There are probably a few very difficult lines to be had here but few people venture here.

  • 5.9, 50′, 2.3 from 10 – Use Your Head, #0.3-2 (not much info on gear)
  • 5.9, 50′, 2.4 from 21 – Prepare for Disappointment, 1 #0.5, 3-4 #0.75’s, 4 #1’s, 1-3 #2, 1-2 #4’s
  • 5.9, 60′, 2.3 from 8 – Back to the Beginning, hard climb, #1-4 with emphasis on larger
  • 5.9, 65′, 3.0 from 3 – Unknown, Several #1-2
  • 5.9+, 80′, 2.4 from 21 – Mawwage, 1 #0.5, 1 #0.75, 2 #2’s, 4 #3’s, 1 #4
  • 5.9+, 80′, 2.6 from 25 – Farm Boy, Several #0.75-3 and #4
  • 5.10-, 35′, 2.4 from 54 – Iocane Powder, 1-2 #3, 4 #4’s
  • 5.10-, 60′, 3.0 from 6 – Lightning Sand, several #0.3-0.75
  • 5.10-, 45′, 2.4 from 14 – Mini Cave, 4-5 #0.5, 4-5 #0.75
  • 5.10-, 70′, 2.9 from 32 – Princess Buttercup, several #0.75-3, one #4
  • 5.10-, 100′, 3.3 from 31 – R.O.U.S, 2 #0.5-3, 1 #4, maybe #6 for start
  • 5.10c, 130′, 3.5 from 55 – Kelley Route 1, requires 80m, also probably just too long/hard
  • 5.10, 45′, 2.7 from 9 – Brute Squad, requires big bros and #6
  • 5.10, 90′, 2.8 from 33 – Nurse Rachet, 1 #0.5-0.75, 2 #3’s, 4-5 #4’s
  • 5.10, 60′, 2.1 from 36 – Vinciny, doubles #0.75-3
  • 5.10, 60′, 2.5 from 21 – Prepare To Die, 1 #0.5, 2-3 #0.75’s, 3 #1’s, 2 #2’s, 1 #3
  • 5.10+, 60′, 3.0 from 84 – Dread Pirate Roberts, 2 #0.5, 3 #0.75’s, 3 #1’s 3 #2’s
  • 5.10+, 60′, 2.5 from 19 – True Love, requires micro cams
  • 5.10+, 90′, 2.7 from 6 – The Original Prepare to Die, 3 #2’s, 4 #3’s, 2 #4’s, 1 #5

The Optimator

0.2 mile approach, 432 ft gain

  • #0.2 – 1
  • #0.3 – 3
  • #0.4 – 3
  • #0.5 – 3
  • #0.75 – 3
  • #1 – 3
  • #2 – 5-7
  • #3 – 3-4
  • #4 – 3
  • #5 – 1

Routes

  • 5.8, 60′, 2.3 from 107 – Charlie’s Pillar, #0.5-3
  • 5.9, 60′, 1.9 from 112 – Brodie Machine, doubles #0.4-2, single #3
  • 5.10-, 110′, 2.6 from 188 – Lady Pillar, #0.3-4 with doubles of #0.3-0.4, double #2, 3-4 #3’s
  • 5.10-, 40′, 2.1 from 7 – St. Pauli Girl, singles #0.4-6, needs a 6
  • 5.10b, 50′, 2.5 from 20 – Ditch ’em, #2-5, with triples #3-4, optional #6
  • 5.10, 120′, 2.5 from 16 – Chick Flick, #0.5-5, doubles #0.5-4 with triples of #0.75
  • 5.10c, 100′, 2.6 from 84 – Mudslide, 1 #0.75, 1 #2, 3-4 #3’s, 2-3 #4’s, 1 #5
  • 5.10, 100′, 3.2 from 288 – Neat, 5-7 #2’s, 3 #3’s, 3 #1’s, one #0.75, one #3, a few small, #0.2
  • 5.10, 50′, 2.0 from 23 – Hefe Weissen, doubles #1-4 with triples #3
  • 5.10+, 120′, 2.4 from 60 – Sardikar, triples of #0.5-4, one #5
  • 5.10+, 110′, 2.9 from 92 – Long Island Iced Tea, #0.3-4, with triples of #0.3-3?
  • 5.10+, 70′, 2.7 from 111 – Casey’s Route, doubles #0.3-1, triples #2-3 (hard route)

Supercrack Buttress

The most popular area in Indian Creek.

  • #0.3 – 2
  • #0.4 – 3
  • #0.5 – 4
  • #0.75 – 4
  • #1 – 4-6
  • #2 – 6
  • #3 – 6-8
  • #4 – 3-4
  • #5 – 1

Routes

  • 5.8, 40′, 1.9 from 19 – Triple Jeopardy, triple #0.4’s
  • 5.8+, 40′, 2.4 from 473 – Twin Cracks, doubles #1-2, 3-4 #3’s, 1 #4
  • 5.9, 50′, 2.3 from 97 – Unnamed, 2 #0.5’s, 1 #1, 3-4 #2’s
  • 5.9+, 40′, 1.8 from 140 – 24 Unknown, singles #0.5-1, double #2
  • 5.10-, 140′, 2.9 from 23 – Super Surprised, would need two ropes, doubles #0.3-1, triples #2-3
  • 5.10-, 90′, 2.5 from 21 – Bongo Flake, doubles #2-4, single #5
  • 5.10, 110′, 3.2 from 177 – No Name Crack, 1 #1, 4-5 #2’s, 4-8 #3’s, 2 #4’s
  • 5.10, 115′, 3.5 from 585 – 3AM Crack, 1 #0.5-0.75, 4 #1’s, 6 #2’s 6 #3’s
  • 5.10, 100′, 3.8 from 1,111 – Incredible Hand Crack, 3 #1’s, 6 #2’s, 3 #3’s
  • 5.10, 100′, 3.1 from 281 – Gorilla, 2 #0.5-0.75’s, 3 #1’s, 4 #2’s, 5-6 #3’s, 2 #4’s
  • 5.10, 110′, 2.5 from 57 – Pigs in a Slot, #1-5 with 4 #4’s
  • 5.10, 100′, 3.0 from 226 – Keyhole Flake, doubles #0.3-2 with 4-5 #3’s and 2 #4’s
  • 5.10, 3 pitches, 3.8 from 1,068 – Supercrack of the Desert, singles #0.5-0.75, 4-5 #2’s, 5 #3’s, 3 #4’s
  • 5.10b/c, 2 pitches, 3.0 from 183 – Amaretto Corner, #2-5 with doubles #2-4
  • 5.10b, 100′, 2.8 from 70 – Nuclear Waste, doubles #0.4-3, with 4 #0.75 and 3 #0.5, single #4
  • 5.10+, 120′, 3.5 from 114 – Bad Rad Duality, 5-6 #1-2, 4 #3’s, 1 #4
  • 5.10+, 120′, 3.6 from 259 – The Wave, doubles of #0.4, 4 each of #0.5-1, double #2, single #3

Donnelly Canyon

0.5 mile, 300 ft gain

  • #0.3 – 2-3
  • #0.4 – 3
  • #0.5 – 4-7
  • #0.75 – 3
  • #1 – 4
  • #2 – 6-8
  • #3 – 2
  • #4 – 2
  • #5 – 2

As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you’ll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can’t miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek.

  • 5.7, 50′, 1.8 from 52 – Ansaid Tower, singles #0.3-0.75, double #2
  • 5.8+, 50′, 2.7 from 619 – Binou’s Crack, 2-3 #0.3-0.4’s, 3 #0.5-0.75’s, 1 #1
  • 5.9+, 50′, 3.0 from 753 – Chocolate Corner, 1 #0.5, 2 #0.75, 4 #1’s, 1 #2, really tough route
  • 5.10-, 120′, 3.4 from 843 – Generic Crack, 2 #1’s, 6-8 #2’s, 2 #3-4’s
  • 5.10-, 80′, 2.5 from 407 – Elephant Man, doubles #0.4-0.5, 3 #0.75’s, 2 #1’s, 3 #2’s
  • 5.10-, 100′, 2.8 from 63 – The Thing, doubles #0.4-3, with 4 #0.5-0.75’s and 3 #1’s
  • 5.10, 80′, 3.1 from 63 – Owl Crack, 1 #0.75, 4 #1’s, 3 #2’s, 1 #3-4
  • 5.10, 80′, 2.6 from 55 – 5.10 Corner, doubles #1-5
  • 5.10+, 60′, 2.6 from 68 – Unknown 5.10+, needs doubles #0.1
  • 5.10+, 110′, 2.3 from 56 – Unknown Pod Climb, sounds difficult and not very fun
  • 5.10+, 60′, 2.9 from 134 – Mr. Peanut, 1 #0.3, 2 #0.4’s, 4-7 #0.5’s, 1 #2
  • 5.10+, 2.6 from 48 – The Crack Just to Left, triples #0.4-1, singles #3-4