Start date 20200905

Report

Lexington - East Face - 2020

Gear Cams of 0.3-5 (plus Trango Big Bro equivalent to #6), with doubles of 0.5-1, and nuts, worked perfectly! Used #5 on four pitches, #6 only on the two chimney pitches, I’d bring the same gear next time! If anything maybe leave the #6, but I was happy to have it. Radios – They were…

Weather

Twilight: 5:54 AM, Sunrise: 6:26 AM, Sunset: 7:32 PM, Dusk: 8:04 PM

Climbing elevation starts at ~6,500. Sun should hit the cliff close to immediately after sunrise since it’s east face.

Hourly forecast at 6,800. For Saturday…

  • 6am: 44, 13mph gusts
  • 9am: 52, 9mph gusts
  • 12pm: 62, 10mph gusts
  • 3pm: 67, 10mph gusts
  • 6pm: 62, 11mph gusts
  • 9pm: 53, 10mph gusts

For Sunday…

  • 6am: 47, 9mph gusts
  • 9am: 53, 8mph gusts
  • 12pm: 60, 8mph gusts
  • 3pm: 65, 8pmh gusts
  • 6pm: 60, 10mph gusts
  • 9pm: 52, 9mph gusts

Itinerary

  • 2:45 AM: Leave home (3:05 hr drive)
  • 5:50 AM: Trailhead
  • 6:00 AM: Hiking (44 degrees)
  • 7:00 AM: At base (46 degrees)
  • 7:30 AM: Climbing (47 degrees, 10 pitches, 8 hours)
  • 3:30 PM: Summit of climb
  • 4:00 PM: Start “descending” (1:30 hr to trail on West side?)
  • 5:30 PM: Climbers trail, hike around to road and back (3mi, 2,000 ft descent, 2 hrs)
  • 7:30 PM: Car
  • drive to hidden lake lookout trailhead and sleep there

Sunday

  • 4:00 AM hike to hidden lake lookout
  • 6:30 AM top of hidden lake lookout
  • 9:00 AM – Back at car
  • 11:40 AM – Home