Climbs that sound good

  • Johnny Vegas – 5.7, 4 pitches, sounds pretty protected? On second pitch make sure to stay right to avoid 5.9 slab. Descend using gully which requires 70m rope?
  • Solar Slab or Going Nuts – 5.6, 10 pitches. Both are accessed after climbing Johnny Vegas, so a super long day of climbing.
  • MysterZ – 5.7, 7 pitches. Some rate it PG13, with some sections of 20 ft run-out, one person claiming on pitch 6 they couldn’t get a piece in till 40 ft up (pitch 6 seems runout definitely but easy). Gear: I took a 4″ cam but would not take anything larger than a 2 next time, with at least doubles of .4-1″ and lots of long slings. ” I carried a double rack up to a #2 and a single #3/3.5/4. I was glad to have the extra pieces when setting up the stations. ” Sounds like can use #4 on P6 to help a bit.
  • Birdland – 5.7+, 5 pitches (skip the R rated 6th pitch). Rap with 70 or two 60s. Route gets SUPER busy and you have to rap the route. Otherwise people seem to enjoy it and no one mentioned run-out
  • Cookie Monster – 5.7, 3 pitches. You can continue up Cat in the Hat afterwards. Accepts lots of gear! Can be done in 2 pitches, bolted anchor after 190 ft and then a tree anchor at 170 ft. People like it! Climbing Cat in the Hat and then descending that is better than descending this route.
  • Birthday Cake – 5.6, 6 pitches, 1.5 from 13 votes
    • Descent is walk-off down hikers trail
    • Oh so we could climb MysterZ and then Birthday Cake? It’s 200 ft right of Armatron
  • Physical Graffiti – 5.6, 2 pitches, 3.0 from 844 votes
    • Easy first pitch, second pitch hard but “eats gear”
    • Sounds like good short one, outside the front of the park
  • Chamber of Secrets – 2 pitch, 2.7 from 30 votes
    • Second pitch is all hand crack, like legit hand crack, not good for the stitches
  • Schaeffer’s Delight – 5.7, 3 pitches, 2.5 from 104 votes
    • 1st pitch sounds good, not sure about rest?
  • Crown Royal

Climbs we did last time

  • Cat in the Hat – 5.6, 6 pitches. It protected pretty well and was within my comfort level
  • Olive Oil – 5.7, 5 pitches, 4 stars, I liked it and it protected quite well
  • Dark Shadows – 5.8, 4 pitches (Attempt, failed)… We did the first two pitches, then I gave up after trying a bit of the third, it had tricky corner leanback that seemed too difficult to try

No thanks

  • Geronimo – 5.6, 4 pitches, 2.8 stars from 283 votesDescent might have some rope snags, you have to rap it? Three ppl said descent sucks
    One person liked Cat in the Hat and Johnny Vegas more
    Two people say kinda sketchy rock quality, especially P1, and then P4 is apparently worse with runout slab and then chossy chimney
    Doesn’t top out on anything
    Sounds like climbing is decent, but many people say the rappel descent makes it not worth it
  • Rawlpindi – 5.7, 7 pitches. Some say R rated, some don’t like the climbing
  • Frogland – 5.8, 6 pitches. Has multiple PG pitches as declared by the description itself.
  • Group Therapy – 5.7, 6 pitches. NOPE. Bring #5. One person says serious and run-out, R-rated 5.7, another also says need to be comfortable with offwidth and serious runout
  • Tunnel vision – 5.7, 6 pitches. NOPE. The one with the chimney cave. 3rd pitch run-out (“fairly significant”). Cave (5th) has no protection till you exit (some claim tricams in the pockets behind you, but even with tricams run-out of about 15-25 ft). Descent is walk off.
  • Sandy Hole – 5.6, 3 pitches, 2.5 from 33 votes
    • A bit of a walk in, we’d want to find something else to climb with it?
    • Just links up to Tunnel Vision and does NOT bypass the cave tunnel pitch, so nope