Start date 20210718

Report

Marvin's Ear 2021

Overall, this climb was fun but the approach and rappels were annoying. It’s something I’d recommend doing once, but I’m not sure I’d do it again considering Mile High Club is a bit better! Really awesome that someone bolted this route though, I’m thankful for those folks! Key notes… Walkie talkies could have been useful…

Try out Marvin’s Ear! And possibly do Mile High Club again if we have time and energy.

Weather

Forecast at 1,000ft below start of climb: Sunny, with a high near 62. Calm wind becoming west 5 to 7 mph in the afternoon.

Dawn 4:54 AM, Sunrise 5:32 AM, sunset 9:00 PM

Itinerary

If we only do Marvin’s… (The plan!)

  • 4:30 AM – Drive to TH (1:45 hr drive)
  • 6:15 AM – Arrive at TH
  • 6:30 AM – Hike in (2.4 miles, 2,842 ft gain, 2 hours)
  • 8:30 AM – Base of climb
  • 9:00 AM – Climbing (52 degrees at this time) (7 pitches, 25 min per pitch, close to 3 hours)
  • 12:00 PM – Summit
  • 12:30 PM – Rappel (7 rappels, 15 min per rappel, 1:35 hours)
  • 1:05 PM – At base
  • 1:30 PM – Hike back to car (1:30 hrs)
  • 3:00 PM – Back at car
  • 5:00 PM – Back home

NOT DOING THIS… If we also did Mile High…

  • 2:00 AM – Drive to TH (1:45 hr drive)
  • 3:45 AM – Arrive at TH
  • 4:00 AM – Hike in (2.4 miles, 2,842 ft gain, 2 hours)
  • 6:00 AM – Base of climb
  • 6:30 AM – Climbing (52 degrees at this time) (7 pitches, 25 min per pitch, close to 3 hours)
  • 9:30 AM – Summit
  • 10:00 AM – Rappel (7 rappels, 15 min per rappel, 1:35 hours)
  • 10:35 AM – At base
  • 11:00 AM – Walk over to Mile High Club?
  • 11:30 AM – Base of Mile High
  • 12:00 PM – Climbing (just under 3 hours last time)
  • 3:00 PM – Top
  • 3:30 PM – Rappel and back to car (4:20 hours last time)
  • 7:50 PM – Back at car
  • 10:20 PM – Back home

Gear

  • 70m rope (needed for rapping Marvin’s Ear)
  • 11 quickdraws with 3 of them single alpines (good enough for both routes)
  • Maybe walkie talkie? Not needed for Mile High…