Big thanks to
- https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/35315-tr-the-mythical-bellingham-big-wall-7212005/?tab=comments#comment-479363
- http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/mythic2
P1 (5.8, 55m) Start directly below the only tree on the lower face. Pass a horizontal fault at 40′, pull through steep black rock then follow ramps and corners to the tree.
P2 (5.9+, 45m) Hard moves off the belay, then climb up and right until you can traverse right into discontinuous corners. Follow these to a large ledge splitting the face.
P3 (5.4, 25m) Walk left then traverse up and left on a loose-looking but solid rock. Belay near another tree below face cracks on the smooth wall.
P4 (5.10-, 40m) Link face cracks up and right (crux). When they end at a L-facing corner pull out right around the corner onto an easy face.
P5 (5.9, 40m) Climb a nice L-facing corner, then pull a roof. Hand traverse left below the next roof into a fun dihedral. Below more roofs move out left to a belay.
P6 (5.7, 20m) Steep flakes lead to the ridgeline.
Pitch 1 – 5.8, 55m
Start directly below the only tree on the lower face. Pass a horizontal fault at 40′, pull through steep black rock then follow ramps and corners to the tree.
Pitch 2 – 5.9+, 45m
Hard moves off the belay, then climb up and right until you can traverse right into discontinuous corners. Follow these to a large ledge splitting the face.
Or Steph says this is only 5.8…
I was a little uncertain I was on the correct route on this pitch, but I think this is the “shallow corner” system. I actually went left from here into an easier corner, but then had to deal with heinous rope drag after I moved back rightward.
Pitch 3 – 5.4, 20-25 m
Walk left then traverse up and left on a loose-looking but solid rock. Belay near another tree below face cracks on the smooth wall.
Pitch 4 – 5.10-/5.10a, 40m
Link face cracks up and right (crux). When they end at a L-facing corner pull out right around the corner onto an easy face.
Steph: An awesome finger crack up the clean face. This is the money pitch (as well as the 10a crux pitch) of the route. I was happy to have my set of offsets for this pitch—offsets work well in this rock due to the wedge-like nature of some of the cracks.
Pitch 5 – 5.9, 40m
Climb a nice L-facing corner, then pull a roof. Hand traverse left below the next roof into a fun dihedral. Below more roofs move out left to a belay.
Pitch 6 – 5.7, 20m
Steep flakes lead to the ridgeline.
Steph: A short and easy pitch to the arete.