Gear
- If linking, 14 draws (probably some alpine)
- 70m rope if rappelling instead of walking off
Overview
Shaded till around 11:30am in mid-July
P1: 5.4, 5 bolts, 25m
Follow the highly featured rock past bolts, trending rightward slightly, and up to a small terrace with a 2-bolt anchor.
Links easily with P2 as 60m, 14 bolts.
P2: 5.7, 7 bolts, 35m
Move 3m left to the base of the 2nd pitch. A single belay bolt exists. Step up around left to the face with a small ledge and clip the first bolt. Continue straight up fun featured face climbing to a comfortable ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
P3: 5.9, 9 bolts, 35m
Traverse left and up diagonally to where the climbing steepens (do not follow the bolts straight above the belay). Surmount 2 small roofs using awesome jugs. Move slightly left over the 2nd roof then straight up, then right to a comfortable ledge and 2-bolt anchor.
P4: 5.8, 4 bolts, 15m
A short pitch heads straight up from the belay. The wall steepens, becoming a bit cryptic before slabbing out beneath a steep section. Traverse left below this steep section (do not go straight up) and up to a small stance in a corner with a 2-bolt anchor.
Links with P5 but has drag (14 bolts, 47m).
Looking down P4
P5: 5.8, 9 bolts, 32m
Head straight up on the rounded arete above. Clip a bolt out right then move around, onto the steep, exposed face. Climb straight up on fantastic big face holds. It slabs out a bit before the steep final 2 bolts ending on a great ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
P6: 5.10b, 9 bolts. 30m
Crux. Climb straight up past 2 bolts using face holds and a key crimp. Make a few tricky moves left toward a crack then up the crack to below a large roof system. Traverse rightward under the roof curving up the right side then back over left to an excellent ledge and 2-bolt anchor.
Top of P6
P7: 5.7, 7 bolts, 25m
Continue straight up from the belay, snaking leftward, then right, and back left to another fantastic belay and 2-bolt anchor.
Links with P8, but has drag (13 bolts, 60m).
Looking down P7
P8: 5.7, 5 bolts, 35m
Surmount a small rock step to an easy slab section that steepens with easy, fun climbing to large rock steps and ledges and the final mini headwall. Pull a steep 5.7 move and step up to a nice ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Finished!
Descent
You have the option to rappel the route using a 60m or 70m rope, or hike down the backside trail (4th class).
Rappel (60 mins)
Rappel from the last bolted anchor. All bolted rappels except the final P1 rappel.
With a 70m…
- R1: Rappel P8 (35m)
- R2: Rappel P7-6 (exactly 35m)
- R3: Rappel P5+4 (35m?)
- R4: Rappel P3 (35m)
- R5: Rappel P2 (35m)
- R6: Rappel P1 (25m) using the big polished cypress stump 3m down from the start of P2 (no rap rings)
We chose the to walk down and would not do that again due to eroding really bad. I would choose to rappel next time.
2023, Aug 26 – Nick Haha
Hike (30mins) 4th class terrain
From the last anchor, traverse off climbers right into the trees. Work your way up 3rd class steps leftward above into the forest following flagging. The trail traverses climbers right (southward) across the top of the wall through the forest before eventually descending steeply back down around skiers right to the base.
The descent trail joins the approach trail close to the base of the route allowing you to leave extra gear at the base and easily retrieve it after.
The descent is flagged and has 5 fixed ropes to aid through steeper sections and short rock steps. Take caution, there are 4th class sections that require alpine savvy. This descent is double black diamond.
👍 We took the walk off. Fairly fast, fixed lines through all the steep sections, trail will clean up nicely with a little more use.
2023, Aug 8 – Alessandro LP
⚠️ If you are use to the sea to sky area or Squamish( apron descent), its like any other descent in the area. The trail is great and safe.
2023, Sep 1 – Thomas Weber
👍 Walk off was a breeze.
2023, Sep 15 – Henrik Khim
⚠️ We walked off and enjoyed the descent. Definitely steep but manageable, especially with the fixed lines.
2024, May 16 – Daniel Puzzuoli
⚠️ we walked the descent route (double black is a good descriptor, it is reminiscent of some of the sportier approach/descents on the chief but it is straight forward and efficient…..would probably be spooky in the rain).
2024, Jul 15 – Douglas Brown