Gear
- #0.4-3 with optional double 0.5-2
- Nuts
- Many slings
- 60m rope
Overview
P1 – 5.3, 130′
Climb the chimney/tunnel (easier) OR the face to its left (a little more sustained), belay from a large ledge with a tree.
P2 – 5.5, 130′
Continue up the chimney for about 30m, climbing past chockstones and blocky slabs until reaching obvious 3rd/4th class terrain. People say this is the most difficult pitch. Belay from a tree.
Start of P2 
P3 – 5.5, 120′
Ascend the 4th class terrain to a 6 foot finger-crack traverse past a large roof (climbing past a fixed pin) (5.5), then follow a dihedral back to the right and up onto the summit shoulder. Belay from a tree, use long slings and watch the rope drag.
P4 – 5.6, 200′
Shortly after leaving the belay on the ridge to the summit, you’ll encounter a slabby 5.6 boulder problem ~10′ high. After surmounting this obstacle it is easy 3rd/4th class terrain to the summit. Belay from a tree 20′ below the summit on a good ledge. Then it’s a 2nd class 20 ft scramble to the summit.
Descent
From the summit, go back down maybe 25 feet of the route you ascended, but veer to skier’s left and look for a groove in the rock. Take caution on slabby down climb and you’ll see a couple slings wrapped around a tree with double rings. 60m rope is sufficient.
- R1: ~28m, down to the large ledge below.
- Scramble/down-climb skier’s right leading to a cliff. Look right, and you’ll see a rock ledge and bolts on a wall.
- R2: Rappel climber’s left toward a large tree with a small platform next to it.
- R3: ~25mm find bolts on the wall climbers right of the tree, rappel down into the gully where the standard route starts.
First two rappels…
Photo of the R2 anchor…
